More Tools

Smalll Nicholson files. The longer, fatter one has a knife edge on one side. - $15 for both









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General 122 Tube cutter with retractable deburer - $15












Nicholson File - $5




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Footprint sliding bevel gauge - $10





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Stanley Bailey No 3 - $20

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More Tools

Unisaw what do I donisaw

1111111.png The craigslist With sensitive info removed. It has a 3 hp. 1977 considering for purchase. Ripped 200 pieces of something on my cratsman and decided I had enough. I want a saw I can throw stuff through.

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The guy says I can start it up in the morning cut wood on it all day dig myself out of saw dust day in and day out for years and years and years while the saw Stands proudly with bullets bouncing off. superman1986.jpg

What do you guys think.

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Unisaw what do I donisaw

Accuride 3832 Slides

I've looked at there web site and I can't figured out mounting specs. I've never worked with these, so how to.........

1. If I want to put slides on the bottom of a cabinet, can I mount the slide right down on the bottom of the cabinet, or do I need to raise them a little bit?

2. How do you figure out how high to place the center/slide piece on the drawer? is it a standard distance from the bottom of the slide?

Thanks

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Accuride 3832 Slides

How are these legs joined to the bench?

Hey There - making a replica Nakashima Conoid bench. I have got the top side just about figured out but can't find any info on how the legs were joined. Heres a picture of his bench. conoid 2.jpgconoid 1.jpg Thanks for looking.

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How are these legs joined to the bench?

Curved Drawer Fronts

Have a client who is looking for a large drawer to go under a little window seat. Seat is to be curved and then so is the drawer front under it. Drawer will probably be large...maybe 30-35 inches wide and bulging outward maybe 3-4 inches in the center. We're probably working in cherry. Just getting started with ideas and no detailed drawings yet but I've never made a curved drawer front so I thought I'd start the discussion.

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Curved Drawer Fronts

32mm System with Drawer Slides

I just did a set of cases where I installed Festool Systainer drawers. They used 5mm screws in the 32mm system holes. I'm now doing another shop cabinet using the 32mm system with conventional wood drawers. Do drawer guides like Grass accommodate 5mm screws and are they intended to go in the system holes? From looking at the KISS2 pdf, it looks like you can use the system holes.

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32mm System with Drawer Slides

Frameless cabinet locks

Finally going to be installing some decent garage cabinets, having ripped out the old dilapidated "cabinets," if you could even call them that. It was actually sort of a forced project in that I had to rip out the wall they were on as part of ongoing renovations on our place. The upside is that it makes the garage/shop completely dysfunctional to have all those tools/supplies out of some kind of accessible storage, so daddy gets some new shop storage.

Since I don't have a ton of time for this project, I'm going with Ikea melamine boxes. I'll source my own hardware and make the fronts and drawers (simple slab frameless).

I'd like at least some drawers and doors to be lockable. I realize anyone with minimal perseverance could bust them open, but I'd like it as an initial deterrence. I've browsed the usual sources (LV, WWH, etc.), settling on something like this for drawers
http://ift.tt/1N501Nx

but still looking for something for cabinet doors.

What do you all recommend or what have you used?

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Frameless cabinet locks

Where, how & how much for hand tools

It seems to me that the question of appropriate ways to find, build, refurbish or buy hand tools is a constant subject that often clouds questions that original posters are trying to pursue. Certainly this is a hot topic for this forum. It occurred to me to make a post on this topic and give everyone a chance to air their thoughts on this subject in a post dedicated to the specifics of this issue so that maybe we can reduce how often this type discussion ends up clouding other topics.

Hand tools vs machines
I have been a poster on these forums for quite a while. I started out posting on the General Forums. Like many posters on the Neander site I became enamored of the quieter more physical hand tools. Even more, I was tired of having so many posts answered by what machine I needed to buy to do the work for me. Like many posters here I wanted a less expensive way to do things "hands on". I constantly experiment with refurbishing old tools, making tools and purchasing new tools. I personally enjoy all the ways to acquire hand tools. I will also admit to having an affection for and attraction to tool design and function. I may, and often do, buy a tool not just because I need it but because I want to experiment with how well it works for specific work vs other hand tools.

Personal discalimers
I constantly experiment with hand tools in an attempt to eliminate any reliance I may have on machines or electricity. I am not a totally hand tool woodworker, as much as I might prefer to be. I do a good amount of construction work and landscaping that I feel can not be done in a timely fashion without some sort of machine. I have very nice Scythes, which for me have just about eliminated any need I have for weed eaters but those hand tools are not likely to replace my Zero turn mower for mowing 6-8 acres of grass and weeds. I use a track saw for construction work on a regular basis because I often have large quantities of sheet goods to process and lots of lumber to cut to length. I eliminated my table saw years ago and I am in the process of eliminating my electric compound miter saw. I mention these, slightly off topic tools as some of the tools I use for landscaping and construction also get used for woodworking. The point here is sometimes people "need" tools for work that is not strictly speaking woodworking that once purchased may do double duty. I maintain buildings and 12 acres of property with a large array of tools, all of which have to be maintained, sharpened...These "other" tools may skew my particular tool collection vs the average woodworker so I am just mentioning this up front. I think it is wise of each individual poster to realize that we all have our own individual, unique environment that we work in which will certainly skew our tool collection.

Tolerance
I do think there is a risk of taking our hand tool obsession to the other extreme. I am talking about the extreme where each tool has to be refurbished from something found at a flea market or made by hand by the woodworker him/herself. I understand this urge and have particular attachments to those tools I have personally restored or built myself. However, there are quite a few instances where these ways to acquire tools may not serve. I work or attend organized functions just about every Saturday and Sunday I find it very hard to get to flea markets. There are many people who have health or work restraints that may not allow the time required to find flea markets and search them for tools. There are some people who may have more spare cash than spare time and for those people buying items new or buying items someone else has refurbished or built is a logical solution. Although there is a valid worry about scaring new woodworkers with complicated expensive tools that they fear they can not afford. There is also a valid point to be made that a new person attempting to do work with improperly designed or dull tools may become equally discouraged. Sometimes a job has to be done by a specific time or a woodworker attending a class finds a tool on the tool list they do not have time to make or search for before class time...

Objective
I am not making this post to challenge anyones methods for acquiring tools or anyones tool collection, quite the opposite. I applaud everyone who uses hand tools no matter how they acquire them, especially those who find the time and energy to refurbish old tools or build their own tools. I hope this post can serve as a place to consolidate thoughts on this subject. Maybe this thread can serve as a place to send new people who are wondering how, where and how much to spend for tools. I hope we can discuss this topic in a judicious manner that will give everyone a chance to express their opinions in a way that will benefit everyone.

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Where, how & how much for hand tools

crushed stone inlace questions

I've been tinkering some over the last year or so with inlacing, and have found that it is a handy technique to use. I've used turquoise, powdered copper, coffee grounds, brass shavings and red coral, but I want to expand a bit with some different colors of natural stone. I picked up some scrap chunks of lapis and agate at the local gem and mineral show last weekend, but I haven't seen any prior examples to know if they will work well or not when crushed. I have high hopes for the lapis! Any thoughts on those two, or recommendations for other natural mineral/stone/media/etc I can use?

Also, I've read that the dust of some minerals is very harmful if it gets into your lungs. I'm thinking malachite was one of the bad ones. Are there others I need to be careful with or avoid?

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crushed stone inlace questions

Guac bowl

Rough and ready treen for daily use - guac bowl in fresh cherry:



3 ripe avacados
2 tomatoes
chopped cilantro
juice of 1 fresh lemon
salt
pepper
some squirts of hot sauce
garlic powder

toss and enjoy!

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Guac bowl

Is my wall cabinet too long?

Hey all, I got my wall/corner cabinet done last week, painted and installed over the weekend.

The wall cabinet itself is 36” long, I am betting that my shelf will sag in the middle.

My options are to double up the ¾” shelf, or just place a simple divider down the middle of the shelf. My plan was to make up a few supports so that if I ever changed the height of the shelf, I could just easily throw in a new support.

Any other creative solutions for this?

THX

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Is my wall cabinet too long?

Ebay 50W laser problems

I need some help and verification please.


I have a 50W ebay laser. It's the big blue one that's similar or the same as a SH-350.


I've been using it all weekend but tonight things went very VERY wrong. I was engraving a glass when all of a sudden the laser stopped engraving. About 5-10 sec later I heard the worst noise ever. I knew right off the bat the laser was arcing. I shut everything down with the emergency stop button. The FIRST thing I checked was the water pump and it's flowing perfectly fine. I have an active 1/4hp chiller that was working properly also maintaining the water at 20-21*C.


I've completely gone over the tube and I can't find a single break over the whole thing. I've checked the HV wire and it's completely fine also. Well I needed to verify that it was indeed arcing because I didn't actually see anything spark. After triple checking everything I powered everything up and I tested the laser using the pulse and sure enough the laser arced right under the HV side of the tube.


Now what do I do?


I can't find anything wrong with the laser tube. The ONLY thing I noticed was some condensation on the hoses because the water was too cold.


After raising the temp alittle bit and waiting for the condensation to completely evaporate I decided to do another test and now I get NOTHING from the laser. Nothing when I push the pulse button and nothing when I push the test button on the power supply.


Are there any more checks I can do?
Is the tube and power supply gone?


Thanks for listening.

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Ebay 50W laser problems

How to finish this tripod table base?

I'm refinishing a small tripod table. It's not an expensive heirloom piece by any means, but this is a project I'm doing with my Dad, who turns 100 years old next week, (he can still sorta' sand & brush laquer) so this is rather important to me.

Stupidly, I forgot to take a pic of it before I stripped it, but it had a fairly non-descript mahogany finish. The top is a lovely framed octagonal piece with a niece piece of mahogany veneer. It will be finished dark brown & brush-laquered. (medium gloss) - I'll post a pic of the top soon.

OK, so the base is some kinda' wood, I know that much! :) It vaguely resembles actual mahogany, but I think that's only because there's still some residual stain in it. the surface that connects to the top, and was unfinished looks like Poplar, or some such light wood. Luckily, and has a nice tight grain, not unlike actual mahogany:






It is fairly even in color, but with a few lighter blotches.

My initial thought is to first do the typical "fake mahogany" schedule: A shellac wash, then a water-based merlot stain, then a brown gel stain so I can even out the blotches.

- But maybe I should use all dyes instead, to maintain a little of the grain? Or use LESS of something, since there's already some stain in the wood?

Also, if I use this method, should I end with some kind of clear coat, to semi-match the top, or leave it matte?
----------------------------

OR, would you do something completely different? - FWIW, I do have a spay system, but that's a giant PITA for such a small item, so I'd prefer some kind of hand-applied schedule.

I'd appreciate any ideas.

Thanks

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How to finish this tripod table base?

How to REMOVE this leg?

I am refinishing a small table that has a tripod base. I want to get the legs off, so as to re-glue them tighter to the center column than they were originally. (There were originally small gaps.)

I can't get two of the legs off to save my life. I need some suggestions.

-----------

The Details:

Here are pics of the patient:






One leg had one of its 2 dowels broken, and I was able to remove it quite easily by heating it with a hair dryer & twisting.

However, the other two legs are holding on for dear life. I heated one for maybe five full minutes, and then puled and rocked it with all my might, but you can see how little it moved. I can't really put a screwdriver in-between the two pieces for leverage, as that would likely damage the wood.

Ughh.


Any ideas?

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How to REMOVE this leg?

Enough is enough.

While I have enjoyed the bulk of those here on the creek, lately I am finding the moderation of these forums to be increasingly ham fisted and unnecessary.
Therefore, while I may pop in from time to time to do some research or to touch base with those whom I have established a relationship, I'll not be posting here any longer.

It's a shame really, being as I have helped some here and also been helped.

But to be fairly regularly reprimanded by moderators for "inappropriate language" or encouraging others to use "inappropriate language" is just inane. At NO time did I engage in the use of any language that was in anyway offensive.

Pity that moderators feel the need to impose their own brand of censorship unnecessarily. Total overkill.

I am sure it is way, way, WAY too much to expect that this post remain , I do hope that anyone with whom I have had interaction, have helped, or has helped me, will please forgive my childish "take my ball and go home" attitude. I'm just a bit tired of folks with some obvious control issues.

Peace.

Madcapwoodwright.

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Enough is enough.

Creeker's Weekend Accomplishments

31 Aug 2015

Good Morning/Evening Everyone,
Nothing for me to report on as I've been working the day job and oncall duty. I'm stuck here in the office right now working critical issues. I'll keep this short and sweet this week. :)

That's it for me, so what did YOU do this past weekend?

Best of weeks to you all.

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Creeker's Weekend Accomplishments

Extremely hard wood

I'm working on a vase right now from a cherry stump. It is so hard it dulls my Thompson gouge after one pass. This piece is making me feel like I just started turning. This thing is so frustrating its makes me want to quit turning for the day. It had been drying for at least five years under the deck, so it is completely dry.

Do do you guys have any tips to get this thing finished, besides perseverance.

Here is the piece in question.

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Extremely hard wood

Could You Make This Rocking Chair?

I can't find who makes this rocking chair but I want one. So I'll probably have to make it but I have no idea where to start. How would you go about figuring out how to make this?

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Could You Make This Rocking Chair?

Best gloves for stream bending

What are the best gloves to get for working with steam bent wood? - what type, but also any brands you have used and liked? Thanks!

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Best gloves for stream bending

Is Rams 2D software still in business.?

I do not get any response from their email tech support.

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Is Rams 2D software still in business.?

FS: Craftsman Rabbet Plane, Block Planes, Spokeshave

Here's a nice little lot of items this Sunday. Sorry for the photo rotation -- Photobucket is unpleasant.

First up is a Craftsman clone of a Stanley No. 78. Decent condition, fence and nicker in place, missing the depth stop. Ready to use -- asking $26 shipped from 48444.







Stanley adjustable mouth block plane. Decent condition -- ready to sharpen and use. $20 shipped.





Craftsman adjustable mouth block plane. Very similar to the Stanley, maybe a touch nicer. $20 shipped.



Unmarked spokeshave. Ready to sharpen and use. $20 shipped.

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FS: Craftsman Rabbet Plane, Block Planes, Spokeshave

5 HP SawStop Will Consider Shipping - $3600 - lots of extras

Will consider freight shipping at buyers expense. Estimate based on U-Ship quotes is about $300-$500 shipping

Saw (new $4700)
5HP wired for 220V
52" rails
Brake carried and dado cartridge both included

Extras
2 - WWII blades (new over $100 each)
1- Dado King (new $300)
1- Excalibur over arm guard (new $550) - sorry no photo with it installed
1- Mobile base (new $100)
Alignment tools (new $150 estimated)
push blocks

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5 HP SawStop Will Consider Shipping - $3600 - lots of extras

Honey Locust Rust

I turned some green Honey Locust tonight, and the sawdust was rusting the lathe ways almost instantly. I turn a lot of green wood, but have never had any other green wood rust the ways this fast. This picture is after fifteen minutes of hollowing. The Johnson's paste wax didn't stand a chance.

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Honey Locust Rust

Daikin air conditioners?

They have been in the US market only 2-3 years. They bought Goodman/Amana, both of which have spotty reviews. So they have 3 lines: goodman (builder grade), Amana (mid grade) and Daikin (premium grade). A very reputable AC man I know speaks well of the Daikin, citing good warrany and observed quality (his observation). Their 18 SEER high efficiency units come with a 12 year parts warranty (including the compressor).

Has anyone had experience with this brand?

Thanks!
Fred

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Daikin air conditioners?

Trend air shield

I bought a a bunch of used lathe tools and included was an older trend air shield, less the battery charger. The shield is probably a 07-09 model. It's in the original box. Not sure it still works because battery is dead and I have no charger.. If someone is interested in it you can PM me with a reasonable offer plus shipping.

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Trend air shield

My New Workshop is Painted !

Well, it's almost all done. Still a few more hours of trim paint to apply, and most of that is ladder work putting two coats on the facia boards around the perimeter of the building. The shutters are in the building on sawhorses, they get one more coat then they'll be ready to put on.
This project is coming along slowly, but steadily. I'm working five 12hr days and 7 on Saturday. Add to that the sun is going down earlier and earlier too. I'm thanking my lucky stars its been dry most every day so I can so a little each day.

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My New Workshop is Painted !

Total horsepower.

I just picked up a used cutoff saw that is going to require more juice than I was anticipating, which got me thinking about how many horsepower was in the shop in stationary equipment in total. Including power feeds, I think I'm up to about 145 total hp.

Just a random thought, what's your total?

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Total horsepower.

Stanley 41 push drill help

Howdy, can anyone tell me how to get a stuck end cap off? Thanks

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Stanley 41 push drill help

Delta Unisaw 3hp Rt tilt

For Sale:
Delta Unisaw with 36" Unifence, Accy's and mobile Base. Home use in AC shop.
Prefer local pickup, but can crate & ship at additional cost
$1600

Located in Cartersville GA, 50mi N of Atlanta
for more info & HD pics email: caseworxmfg@gmail.com

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Delta Unisaw 3hp Rt tilt

Install MiniSplit to outlet??

I have all my 240 outlets in my panel used up and in my subpanel with outlets in my garage. I'm going to put in a mini split in the garage. What you think is the best way to give it power? Is it possible to wire everything into an existing 240 plug? how about disconnect switch?

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Install MiniSplit to outlet??

Coastal Plain Willow: Useful?

I am near Miami. I saw a couple of tree limbs in a trash heap today. I thought they were mahogany, but it turns out they're something else. I believe it's Coastal Plain Willow.

Is this stuff worth salvaging?

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Coastal Plain Willow: Useful?

Shops in Greensboro, NC, area?

Are there any good woodworking shops in the Greensboro, NC, area? The Woodcraft moved, Woodworkers Supply Co is not Woodworkers Supply, Inc. What's are the best options?

Thanks, all.

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Shops in Greensboro, NC, area?

Trotec's Speedy 360

I know Keith posted a link a while back showing a link to the new Trotec Speedy 360 that was coming out. Well, it's at the Philly NBM show. REALLY REALLY nice machine. I was really impressed. One thing I'll say about the factory people at Trotec. They are very studied about their approach to things. They don't appear to just throw ideas at things and "see if they work". They seem to gather a ton of information, formulate a plan, and then execute the plan. The thing that attracts me to it all is that it's not so much a "new" platform, but rather it's all built on the same concepts of the 300 and 400. It appears to take the best of both of those machines and make a new machine. There's nothing unfamiliar with it. It looks like a baby 400 :)

Josh (the Trotec application guy) took the time to take the covers off and show me the inner workings of it, and it's definitely more beefy than the 300. I like the table with the quick change modular tables, the ability to adjust the airflow rate is now there, which is awesome. I think the table weight limit is higher than the 300 because there is a monster motor for bringing the table up and down. Also, it's not officially a pass through machine, but it looked to me like you could do pass through work because of the way the panels were oriented for "cleaning" ;)

I didn't know the machine was going to be at the show, so I didn't go there looking for it, but I'm glad I saw it, it looks like it's going to be a nice machine for their lineup. I like the way they build on what has a proven track record rather than starting from scratch and having to work out all those growing pains.

If you are heading to NBM, check it out.

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Trotec's Speedy 360

PM66 Arbor issues?

Hello all , Hoping to get some help insight into a problem I have. I have a PM66 that's 10 years old. A few months ago I was using a dado blade and heard a noise as if metal had made contact with metal, it only lasted a second. I checked around and could see nothing but the saw sounded a little louder after that. When I put my day to day blade back on I could see it was tight in the ZCI and my after market splitter was not lined up any more. After checking around i found the set screw on the blade arbor was not as tight as it could be, so I tightened up and readjusted the splitter. Recently I noticed the blade was rubbing against the ZCI again, the set screw seemed fine.By this point it must have moved a total close to 1/8". I called Powermatic and a tech told me that any time a blade moves laterally like that it indicates that my arbor bearings were probably going. So I pulled off the top and tried to get the arbor shaft off but the pulley is really tight on there. I removed the two set screws on the pulley, took of the belts, but it doesn't budge. I don't have a pully puller, is that the only way? I tapped it with a rubber hammer around the edges, tried wedging wood in there etc.

Anyway i called Powermatic back and got a different tech who told me that the kind of movement I described would not indicate bearings. He said that the screw that holds the pivot pin in place must be loose or not on the flat spot. So I took the screw out, seemed tight enough and i could see by shining a flash light in the hole that it was on the flat spot and had marked the pivot pin fairly clearly. By that i mean it didn't look like the pin had moved while the screw was touching. So maybe this is not the issue and the arbor is? But I did notice something that I would appreciate feedback on. I've uploaded a picture of the end of the pivot pin. It has two nuts on it and a washer. It is not tight to the casting, should it be? I loosened the outer nut and saw there was a little more left on the thread, but not enough to tighten it up. Another thing which caught my eye was when I lowered the blade all the way , the gap stayed even all the way until the very last turn when I could see the the whole casting get pulled tighter, but when i start to raise the blade it returns to the original position. Maybe it doesn't matter as the blade would be below the table when it would move?

So I'm at a cross road, any thoughts?

Appreciate it,
Chris

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PM66 Arbor issues?

Slipping clamp

Hello All,
I need some help/info. I picked up a Bessy strap clamp at a yard sale. It looked good but it doesn’t get tight. As you screw the handle in the strap just pulls out from the canister. I took the cover off of the 6-7 screws that hold the cover on 4 were stripped out. Someone was there before me. I couldn't see anything missing but the band just pulls out.
Any Help would be appreciated.
Ed:mad:

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Slipping clamp