mercredi 30 septembre 2015

Width of Boards for Honduran Mahogany Coffee Table

I am making a Greene and Greene inspired coffee table that is 24 inches wide out by 53 inches long of Honduran Mahogany. I have two, flat, 9 inch wide boards. In order to keep these wide boards from cupping, would it be better to rip those boards in half so that the top consists of six, 4- inch boards, or is Honduran mahogany stable enough not to have to do that?
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Width of Boards for Honduran Mahogany Coffee Table

Retractable power cord recommendations

Can anyone give a recommendation for a decent auto retractable or manual winding cord reel? I bought a 50' 12g auto wind one from the green bear but Im hoping I can improve on its usefulness.

For or self winding I'd like 100' of 12g and for auto wind 50' of the same. There are some self winds with mesh baskets named green leaf that look interesting.
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Retractable power cord recommendations

"Soft bottom" planes

"The auction site" has a couple of planes that are described as "soft bottom". They look like normal number 4 Baileys to me. Can anyone enlighten me about what a "soft bottom" is?
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"Soft bottom" planes

How do I reduce the thickness a half inch?

I made this 10" bowl/dish to hold an iced tea pitcher. It is wormy red oak; a total of 2.5" thick. The sides are 1.5" high and about 0.3" thick.
A little subtraction gives the base as 1" thick. I want to reduce it to 0.5".
I could run it through the drum sander, but that will take forever. I thought about setting a 1/2" router bit 1/2" up on the router table and running it through randomly a dozen times; I figure that will reduce the amount of wood to be sanded by half. Safe? Reasonable?

Any other ideas?

dish.jpg
Attached Images
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How do I reduce the thickness a half inch?

oliver band saw for sale

for sale is an 18" oliver model 192 bandsaw. excellent condition. single phase, 220 volt, 1 1/2 hp. dc motor with controller. new tires, bearings, blade, paint. original fence and delta miter gage, mobile base is also included. for pick up only. can help to load.located in central n.y. state.



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oliver band saw for sale

V-Carve silver milling

Anyone have any experience V-Carving silver on the cnc. Thinking I will need a 90 deg carbide bit with a .125 diam.

I have experience milling alum and brass. I will be engraving text that will be .375 in height.

Thanks, Robert
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V-Carve silver milling

Vertical Banding

I always have vertical banding when rastering with my Gweike:

2015-09-30 10.43.56.jpg2015-09-30 10.44.33.jpg

What I've read is that it could be caused by power or mechanical problems. I'm thinking it probably isn't power, because the frequency of the banding is always the same no matter how fast it scans. That would seem to mean that the pulsing is related to the head's position rather than an external variation like inconsistent power. I've found plenty of posts saying that mechanical issues can cause vertical banding, but not much detail about what mechanical issues to look out for. What problems should I look for and how do they contribute to banding? I've seen belts mentioned, but aside from backlash at the ends of the move, how does tension contribute? I would expect something like dirty rails or bearings to create more irregular patterns.

Could it be something like the resolution of the drivers? I'm familiar with stepper drivers for 3D printers. If there is no gearing in the extruder and the drivers are set to 1/16 microstepping, there are few enough steps/mm that pauses between steps are just long enough to create tiny pulses in the flow of plastic which show as a pattern on the surface of the print. I can see a similar thing happening with the laser if the steps/mm are low enough.
Attached Images
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Vertical Banding

Flashlight question

I am a flashlight junky, and cannot resist something oddball, and cheap. Picked a light off the clearance rack at HD the other day. It is an Energiser Carabiner Crank Light, and it was 3 or 4 bucks.

The package says you crank it for one minute, and get three minutes of light, at 7 lumens. This is an FL 1 standard that it apparently meets. I cranked it for 1 minute 15 seconds, then turned it on and left it. Twenty minutes later it was still putting out good light. At an hour, it was getting dimmer, but still good. It went one hour forty minutes and still put out enough light to be useable, about like a night light.

This light has three LED's, and the package says it never needs batteries. In tiny lettering it says it has NiMH batteries inside.

My question is..........do you think it also has a capacitor, or just the batteries.
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Flashlight question

I did it! System Purchased Direct from China from XTLaser.

I wanted to thank everyone on this forum for their great advice and for sharing their knowledge. I run a custom engraving business using an industrial sandblaster set up, kind of doing custom work, one-off weird shaped items and unique things. I've been doing more and more metal engraving and decided to invest in a fiber laser to speed my process and hope to capture more work. I talked to a lot of folks here who gave some great advice and shared experiences. For my uses I felt that going with a high powered galvo fiber was the way to go. I chose to purchase direct from a manufacturer in China. I wanted to share my purchase experience.

For months, starting last November, I talked with multiple companies both in the US and overseas. I'm a detail oriented guy and look at all angles. After looking at various units, components, prices, shipping, capabilities I decided on purchasing a 50 watt galvo fiber laser from XTLaser (XTLaser.com). Jason, the sales manager at XTLaser was by far the most responsive and organized of the many people and companies I dealt with. He answered all my questions one-by-one over months of considering, learning, and hearing things from other companies. His English is great and language was never a barrier in our months of email communication. He was always professional and provided pictures, videos, and screen shots. He sent me a demo version of the software upon request and I ended up playing the EZCad2 for a few weeks learning how to import my art into the system. Good practice and verified that my methods of graphic manipulation would import properly. I've had the laser for a week now and he remains available to help me trouble shoot and he's working with me to climb the learning curve through email and he's offered to Skype, although I have not taken him up on it yet.

The price point was the main reason for going with a Chinese import rather than a US based company. That being said XTLaser was not the cheapest foreign company. Others companies quoted some lower prices and/or offered to throw in a lot of extras. The main reason I chose XTLaser was #1 Jason the sales manager I worked with, #2 the components used by XTLaser. I researched every component manufacturer used by the end builder to make sure I was getting quality and reliable parts. Jason said he'd be available for after sale support and he has been responsive and helpful as promised - his grasp of the English language, his organization and pics and videos are very beneficial.

Once I decided to purchase from XTLaser Jason kept me in the loop as far as when they received the money wires, he updated with pictures of my unit being built, and sent me test videos once it put together. He even sent pictures of if being loaded on the truck for delivery. I purchased a "mini" unit, basically a stripped down laser system that could be packaged into a smaller crate for direct door-to-door air shipment. I purchased some laser glass and I'm building my own "containment" enclosure for the system. It was faster and easier to get through Customs going this route. Had I purchased a larger unit with the enclosure box it would have to go by boat and would have taken longer and I would have likely had to hire a customs broker to help me through the maze of getting it out of the port and moved to my door, which would have added some costs (others can talk to this point). Shipping by air (TNT.com) was relatively smooth and quick, tracking # allowed me to keep up with progress. Once it landed in the US at JFK Airport in NY I called the company verified my information, they called me when it hit customs, I paid the duty fees over the phone and the crate was released within 24 hours and on the road to my door in Florida.

I've had the laser about a week and have started playing with it on scrap items. I'm learning how to dial in the settings and trying to figure out how to get the best results for the given materials I hope to mainly work on. That being said I really hope to learn the full capabilities of this machine and expand my business. (Any input on the best settings for various materials from my "Fiber Galvo Bretheren" would be appreciated and anyone who uses EZCad2 contact me and we can swap tricks and tips!!!)

This is my first large international purchase and I must say I was a bit (...OK, more than a bit...) nervous through the process. I am pleased with the end result and I feel the unit I got will enable me to move faster and engrave/mark metals in a variety of fashions, the overall cost (cost of the unit, cost to ship, customs/duty fees, miscellaneous stuff) was worthwhile. I won't discuss exact costs -- I did not go the cheapest route from the lowest bidder, but I feel I got the best deal for what I wanted and needed. Once I get this dialed in and figure out the best settings for my work I'm certain I'll get a return on my investment in a reasonable time.

Importing direct can be done and when I'm ready for laser #2, 3 and 4 I'll be calling Jason back.

** About me, I'm a "do it your-selfer" and like to climb my own learning curve, take things apart, and find out new and unique uses for things. I can't and don't have time to sit through hours of classes or instruction, so I'm good at figuring things out myself, reverse engineering, and self-paced learning. Spend many hours during the wee hours of the night tweeking and learning and breaking and fixing... direct purchase from overseas may not be the answer for everyone **

** I did not receive any special deal or pricing to promote XTLaser or Jason, in fact we didn't discuss pricing until late in the game and his pricing was very up front from the start. Negotiations with XTLaser were minimal. I wanted to share my experience with the forum and am just a very satisfied customer. If you're looking to import a system contact Jason at xintian102@xtlaser.com , tell him Matt sent you**

If I can think if anything else I'll share. I hope this experience helps anyone out there who is investigating their own journey. Best wishes!
Matt
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I did it! System Purchased Direct from China from XTLaser.

Marble Racetrack -- NOISY kids toy.

I built this several years ago, but just revisited it recently to put together a more detailed web page with many more photos.




Overview: Drop the marbles in at the top, they race down one of two tracks, banging and clattering all the way...





And at the bottom they leave the track, ring the bell, and drop into this sort of catch basin area



I bought this brass counter bell (desk bell) kit from Lee Valley. They don’t sell it any more, but you can find a counter bell at any office supply store, or check amazon



This is a two-dimensional marble toy. (Rear view) all the track pieces are simply glued or tacked to this vertical plywood back.


(If you want a complicated 3-D type of marble toy, I recommend checking out one of Matthias Wandel’s, like this one: http://ift.tt/1GhkAij )



Top Down, watching them roll



Ringing the Bell…



I used 9/16" diameter chrome steel balls. And then made this wooden track sections from 3/4" wide by 1/4" thick stock, glued up into this U-shaped channel.



The base needs to be thick + heavy, so it doesn’t tip. I embedded the back into a dado.
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Marble Racetrack -- NOISY kids toy.

mardi 29 septembre 2015

Laser Engraving Gravoply ultra Issues

Hi Guys

I've been having a few issues laser engraving gravoply ultra, especially when engraving white plate with a red or black core.

faded logo.jpg

The black or red enraved area looks faded almost as if the dust has become ingrained in it.

When i try cleaning the dust off by wiping with metho or cleaner it still maintains its faded look.

I'm pretty sure I have my settings correct 50 power - 100 speed on trotec speedy 100 and I am engraving from bottom to top and I have external extraction.

Any tips would be appreciated

Thanks

Pat
Attached Images
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Laser Engraving Gravoply ultra Issues

Anyone know how to take apart a Craftsman TS motor?

Ok, so the mounting plate/motor housing broke, and I found a place to repair it, but I can't get the bloody armature out of the housing. It looks like it's the front bearing is pressed into the housing, the the armature goes through the housing.

I was hoping to find someone who's done it before. Currently the plan is to heat up the housing with my paint stripper gun and press out the armature with my drill press.

Here's a picture of the motor: http://ift.tt/1O76eZH

Thanks in advance.

Bill
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Anyone know how to take apart a Craftsman TS motor?

Turning trumpet valves

I've given myself the challenge of turning a trumpet and making it playable. I have most of the components turned except for the valves. My dilemma is what material to use for the valves. Although I'd like to use hard maple to match the rest of the trumpet, I'm concerned about movement of the wood and binding of the valve. The tolerances have to be very tight for the valves to function, and, although it won't be played very much, I want a functioning trumpet. I'm in the process of making some valves from Corian glue-ups but would prefer wood. Does anybody have any suggestions on what wood tends to move the least with humidity? Would an oily wood such as African Blackwood move less? I also have Osage orange and holly. Any suggestions? I'll post the final project when finished.
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Turning trumpet valves

Turning trumpet valves

I've given myself the challenge of turning a trumpet and making it playable. I have most of the components turned except for the valves. My dilemma is what material to use for the valves. Although I'd like to use hard maple to match the rest of the trumpet, I'm concerned about movement of the wood and binding of the valve. The tolerances have to be very tight for the valves to function, and, although it won't be played very much, I want a functioning trumpet. I'm in the process of making some valves from Corian glue-ups but would prefer wood. Does anybody have any suggestions on what wood tends to move the least with humidity? Would an oily wood such as African Blackwood move less? I also have Osage orange and holly. Any suggestions? I'll post the final project when finished.
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Turning trumpet valves

Drawer Case Build (Part 3)

It's been a month since I posted an update on the project. I've been busy with travel, work and family but I've been making progress a couple hours at a time.

Making the drawers is not particularly interesting. I milled and sized about 30 drawers sides, 15 drawer fronts and 15 backs.
drawer case part 3-1.jpg
I did a test layout for the drawer bottom groove. I'm using through dovetails front and back with a groove that goes right through the tail. This is not an issue because the back is open and the front will get an applied face which will cover the groove.
drawer case part 3-2.jpg

I lined the tail boards up by twos. This made layout and cutting faster.
drawer case part 3-3.jpg
12 identical sets right off the saw. As I began the assembly, I pared the shoulders but they didn't need much work. I was able to get fairly close with the saw.
drawer case part 3-4.jpg
Next I sized each drawer face to fit it's specific location. Next time, I'll make the drawer face a little taller. By the time I was done cleaning up, some ended up a bit smaller than I wanted. Close enough for the shop, but I was trying for better.
drawer case part 3-5.jpg
As always, as soon as I finish, I have 10 ideas about how to do it better.
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Drawer Case Build (Part 3)

Not an incredible score, but not bad.

This popped up on Craigslist a number of weeks ago, disappeared, and popped up again. I found a couple of examples on Ex-Factory and a few other places selling for north of $10k. Picked it up for $5,000. Bags are in good shape, overall it hasn't been beat up too badly.










Murphy-Rodgers MRSE-16-4D 20hp, and has a shaker on a timer. Too bad I won't be able to do anything with it until deep into next spring when the new shop is up. The current shop doesn't have enough juice in it to run this anyways, and it's not worth the time and money to rehab my current system. Plus pouring a pad for it to sit on. I do wish the previous owners had sprung for an airlock. I'm also thinking about having a new frame welded up for it to sit on. Something wide enough, and tall enough to get a dump trailer under so I can either dump straight into something, or get an airlock and dump straight into it.

I'm pretty psyched to have adequate dust collection at some point though! What I've got going on now is just dumb.
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Not an incredible score, but not bad.

White Pine for turning?

I just had a large (36" diameter) white pine cut down in front of the house. I had the arborists leave a few sections of the logs to possibly make something out of. After handling even the small logs 20" diameter, I came away with lots of sap on my hands. I am wondering if it's even worth the effort to try to make a few bowls. Any Ideas?

Just before coming down.
0928151659[1].jpg
Attached Images
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White Pine for turning?

Working with melamine

Hey, folks. I need to build a closet organizer system (for a reach-in closet about 8' wide and 2' deep) and I want to make it out of melamine. I've never worked with the stuff before. I know it's prone to chipping out and requires special screws. There will be some cabinet boxes hanging on the back wall, so I need to figure out a slick way to hang them, too. Design ideas are also welcome -- especially if you have pictures of stuff you've built.

All input and advice is welcome and appreciated. Thanks!!

- Jason
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Working with melamine

Your Favorite Unhealthy Snacks

With Halloween approaching the proliferation of candy corn increases much to the wife's dismay. She cannot resist that and carrot cake. Chocolate is my weak spot. With the holidays not far off, what snack will prove too much temptation to resist?
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Your Favorite Unhealthy Snacks

How do you fit a cow in a laser?

You need a Speedy 400, of course...
Attached Images
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How do you fit a cow in a laser?

Should I plane my rough cut lumber for quicker drying?

I got quite a bit of cherry and walnut from a friend who had it in his barn for a few years,it's all rough sawn to about an 1"-1 1/8".Currently all the lumber is around 12% MC,I am going to stack it in my shop which is climate controlled summer and winter,to finish drying to the shops EMC.Since I typically start with 7/8" thick lumber,would I be better off to plane it now,I was wondering if that would help the drying process,or just leave it thicker and plane it as I use it?
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Should I plane my rough cut lumber for quicker drying?

Felder AD 531 J/P

How much is a used Felder AD 531 J/P with spiral head worth in excellent condition? Don't know exactly how old, but can't be too old since it has a spiral head. It looks brand new. It's a pretty long trip to go look at it and I don't want to waste my time or the other guy's if it's out of my league price wise. Thanks.

John
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Felder AD 531 J/P

Sealing PVC DC Ducting

I've had my cyclone DC for a number of years and never sealed the PVC duct connections. My initial thought was "let's see if this works ok" before doing anything more permanent. I'd really like to avoid PVC cement if possible so when I move, I can reuse the ducts with a minimum of effort.
I know that plain old duct tape is a very poor choice.
It appears aluminum tape is a much better choice but I know from experience it is nearly impossible to remove from a pipe once it is applied.
I'm curious what people have used to seal their PVC ducts.
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Sealing PVC DC Ducting

Butt Chisel Recommendation

I'm really trying hard to get into using hand tools, but its a bit frustrating as the skill required is a magnitude higher than power tools, not to mention the patience.

I bought a 1" Robert Sorby butt chisel and I wasn't too impressed. The brass ring around the strike area immediately fell off after pulling out the chisel the first time. It didn't seem sharp straight out of the package. Maybe this is normal. I'm using the chisel to make a mortise for a hinge. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good sharp chisel straight from the factory and a preferred hand sharpening method/stone for a first timer to learn on? Price is not a consideration for me so please recommend as you see fit. I'd like something well made, high quality steel and easy to sharpen. Thanks in advance.

BTW, I'm looking at these but want other's recommendations as well:

http://ift.tt/1MDvSSM
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Butt Chisel Recommendation

lundi 28 septembre 2015

Cutting 1/2 basswood with a laser

Folks,
Has anyone worked with cutting 1/2 basswood on a laser in 1 or 2 passes without leaving a lot of edge soot behind? The project is to cut a puzzle for carving and we have had a problem with soot accumulating in the kerf and getting over everything when carving.
Here is the recipe that we are using, and I would appreciate any suggestions or tests that someone might run.
Boss LS-1630 w/ 120w tube
  • Lens: 4" - focused at 111mm from top of lens
  • Speed: 5mm/s
  • Power: 65% of 95% of 120w tube
  • Air Assist to nozzle: 40psi
  • Exhaust Ratio: 25% Top of material / 75% bottom of material.

That is the minimum that we can get through without any issues. The Air assist made a lot of difference, and I am topped out on air pressure for the system so not sure if more air would make the difference. I am looking at upgrading the hosing but right now 40psi is about the top of the existing tubing so I can't tweak much more.



Any help would be appreciated!
Greg
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Cutting 1/2 basswood with a laser

JT Turning tools - Precision Vacuum Adapter

I have an extra (unused) precision vacuum adapter from JT Turning tools



It lists for $99 new through their website, I can do for 80 shipped anywhere in CONUS. Paypal preferred. I got it with my new lathe, but already had the leftover one from my previous lathe, so didn't need the spare.

Regards,
-Alex
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JT Turning tools - Precision Vacuum Adapter

Sorry... MM16 vs LT16HD

Sorry to post this question again, I can't make a decision! I am looking for a bandsaw, and have narrowed it to these two. I was in orange county on an overnight this last week and was able to walk to the Laguna showroom. I was able to see the LT16HD and Lt18 Italian in person, and was very impressed. I haven't had the chance to see a MM16 in person, but from what I've read and seen online it seems pretty good. Anyone here in SLC and have one I could come see, or know of someplace that has one? Part of me feels it's crazy to spend this much on a bandsaw, I'll use 10% of it most of the time. I've been using my fathers Rikon 18" for a few years, and just want something a little nicer, although it does everything I've asked it to... I can't make a decision!
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Sorry... MM16 vs LT16HD

3 phase dust collector

Hey everyone,

I recently acquired a 4hp 3ph coral dust collector. When I got it I didn't realize that it was 3ph. Now i am hit with a choice between a phase-a-matic 600HD phase converter or spending some serious dough on a VFD. What are you guys's thoughts on which I should choose?
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3 phase dust collector

shooting plane

I was at the WIA show last week end and I saw a lot of shooting boards and planes. I noticed the #6 plane size was mostly used. What size do most of you use?
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shooting plane

4224a powermatic lathe for sale

I have a 4224A Powermatic lathe and all the things that came with it. I also have a monster combo hollowing system with the articulating arm and the capture arm and everything that came with it, also a extra large boring bar, and a swan bar, and a reverse scraper, and a homemade steel 4 wheel steady rest. I want $4150 for everything. I will sell the monster hollowing system for $650 plus shipping and the steady rest for $100 plus shipping. I will not sell lathe until the other things are sold. the monster system had never been used. ps. I live in grottoes, va 24441 ph# 540-421-7341 Thanks JimClick image for larger version.  Name: P8290047.jpg  Views: 11  Size: 143.7 KB  ID: 322365Click image for larger version.  Name: P8290048.jpg  Views: 12  Size: 161.8 KB  ID: 322366Click image for larger version.  Name: P8290050.jpg  Views: 13  Size: 138.3 KB  ID: 322367Click image for larger version.  Name: P8290051.jpg  Views: 14  Size: 138.4 KB  ID: 322368Click image for larger version.  Name: P8290052.jpg  Views: 14  Size: 141.7 KB  ID: 322369Click image for larger version.  Name: P8290053.jpg  Views: 13  Size: 133.2 KB  ID: 322370Click image for larger version.  Name: P8290054.jpg  Views: 11  Size: 148.3 KB  ID: 322371Click image for larger version.  Name: P8290055.jpg  Views: 9  Size: 133.9 KB  ID: 322372
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4224a powermatic lathe for sale

Uk supplier needed for activated charcoal

My filter on my Purex Superflow extraction filter has just given up the ghost. Got a quote for a replacement and at about £350 is a touch expensive. As it is just a metal box with 3mm dia cylindrical charcoal it shouldnt be too hard to find. Anyone else in the UK do this themselves and has found a cheap supplier of the charcoal?

cheers

Mike
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Uk supplier needed for activated charcoal

Artisanal Firewood?

Maybe this was brought up before, but if this guy can make money why can't I?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBb9O-aW4zI

It may just be a jab at the artisanal lust crowd.

jtk
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Artisanal Firewood?

Oliver 90 Sliding Table Saw

More of an OWWM but I thought I'd post it here too:

It's with heavy heart I have decided to list my Oliver 90. Just too much for my small shop. Comes with fence, quadrant, two miter gauges, horseshoe to connect them. Pretty much all you could ask for. I've greased it and kept it lubed but that's all I've had to do to it. All accessories in the photos are included. I unloaded it with my engine hoist, should be able to put it on a low trailer again.

Thread from when I brought it home is here:

http://ift.tt/1PJqaPS







Asking $1000 OBO. Willing to potter with payment but I'm mainly selling due to lack of space.
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Oliver 90 Sliding Table Saw

Internet Explorer

We have specific Intranet Web Sites we have to use Internet Explorer with. We also have multiple uses on the same PC. I have a web site that doesn't work the same on my account then it does on another. If I open the web page I should get a banner at the top and menu items in the lower section but I don't get the menu stuff. I deleted all the cache & temp files, is there someplace IE stores individual settings?
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Internet Explorer

lathe face plates I believe 1.5x8tpi, off powermatic pm90

lathe face plates I believe 1.5x8tpi, off powermatic pm90 I think, I bought a lathe at an auction and these were with it, I can't use them. these vary a lot in price on ebay, from 30-60$ from what I see under completed listing, make an offer, will give better deal if you want more then one.

I appear to have a 7 inch, 5 inch and 3 inch, but I have not measured them.

pictures
http://ift.tt/1h2zAd9
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lathe face plates I believe 1.5x8tpi, off powermatic pm90

really basic physics question - what am I missing

This is the question:

A person is moving for 2 minutes with a constant speed 4 m/s would cross a distance of?

Ok so moving at 4m/s and 2mins equals 120s. Therefore 4m/s X 120s = 480m

The answer on the test was 240m

So what did I miss.
(.-.)


really basic physics question - what am I missing

dimanche 27 septembre 2015

Finish For a Chest-on-chest Bottom-chest Top

I’m trying to decide what to put on the top of the lower case of a chest-on-chest I’m making. I’m looking for something tough and repairable that I can apply with a brush or a rag. The chest top in question is veneered.


Most of the chests’ exterior surfaces are Waterloxed. (The interiors are shellacked.) The upper chest is heavy; I would expect it to mar a Waterloxed surface that hadn’t cured indefinitely.


Shellac appeals to me because it looks nice and seems unlikely to cause problems in future repair efforts. But I don’t know whether shellac is hard and tough enough for this application. Brushing lacquer? Arm-R-Seal? (Is it hard to repair Arm-R-Seal on veneer?)

I’d appreciate any thoughts.
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Finish For a Chest-on-chest Bottom-chest Top

I just wanted to share!!!

I just felt like sharing my latest accomplishment....

If you've seen the lasers on ebay you know they come with a roller type rotary to engrave glasses. IMG_3409.jpg
Using this to do Pint glasses is a nightmare and I didn't even want to try wine and champagne glasses.
After trying out a few glasses I knew I wanted something different.
Since I haven't been able to make much money with my laser yet and I've been dishing out a alot getting everything setup and functioning the way I want. I decided I didn't have the money to buy another rotary. So the only other option was to make one. After looking at a few I came up with a design and overall I'm extremely glad it's worked.
It's made from 1/8" and 1/4" acrylic I had left over. I purchased some bearings and RC car axles from Amazon (total about $15.) And I used a belt and the motor from the old rotary.

Total time took about 3 weeks of trial and error.

Well I guess I'm just posting this because I hope someone here will understand the excitement of engineering, fabrication, and the success of seeing it work.

My laser hasn't made me much money and surely hasn't paid for itself but it sure has allowed me to have a blast making things.

Here's a few more pictures and a video.
IMG_3434.jpgIMG_3436.jpgIMG_3439.jpgIMG_3440.jpg

https://youtu.be/hiwsJuu3XfA
Attached Images
(.-.)


I just wanted to share!!!