samedi 31 octobre 2015

Yeti Mugs

= = = = = = = = = = =
NH IRX-IV pantograph - NH Concept 2000 w/Q1E upgrade kit - NH V5000XT #1 - NH V5000XT #2 - NH V5000
NH V3400CL cylinder engraver - NH V3400 #1 - NH V3400 #2 - NH V3200 - NH IS400 point & shoot
NH IS7000 - NH 20" Vanguard vinyl cutter - NH Optima (ULS) 25w 12x18 laser (soon heading to the BIL's house)
NH LS900 40w 24x24 laser - GCC Explorer 30w 38x20 laser - Triumph 1390 80w 51x35 laser
Various saws, grinders & other implements of destruction

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Yeti Mugs

Online wholesale lumber - a good bet?

Hello and good afternoon!

I'm wondering what you guys do to get good prices on rough lumber/hardwoods? I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba.

Is it worth it to buy online, considering the shipping costs? I've looked online at a few places, like Westward hardwood, but they are on the island. There's also Advantage lumber...... But I'm must not sure and I'd like to hear others opinions of the quality and pricing.

Mostly, I'm going to buy small amounts so the big local wholesalers don't want me poking around, and if I go to a place like Windsor plywood, the prices are pretty high and the selection is poor. Often they don't have the sizes i want so I have to re-jig my project plans and I'd rather not do that. (for example, finding 8/4 rough is hard, but finding ¾ S4S is no problem, but $$)

Thoughts or experience? Thanks in advance.

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Online wholesale lumber - a good bet?

Framing Ichikawa (complete build)

I've been eyeing some classical Ukiyo-e to hang in my study. I came across these early 20ty century reprints and couldnt resist them.


I finish plane the stock prior to working on it so that the inside surfaces are completely finish planed

Getting a nice sheen right off the finish plane

Chamfering all of the inside edges

Half laps

Mitering the inside of the half lap shoulders

Jointing and fine tuning the finished inside frame

Dovetails


Dry fit

One more to go

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Framing Ichikawa (complete build)

Mid Century . . . . . .

Full Circle, Nakashima's book.

I read somewhere that George Nakashima's designs are Mid Century.
I don't see his work as Mid Century. His work was in the middle 20th century. But. . . . ...

I see Mid Century as being Fed Mart. I bought several pieces of what I call Danish Modern.
They were nice designs that I like. Fed Mart had a lot of Danish Walnut furniture that I liked and still do.

I don't see Danish Modern as inferior. So, I do appreciate Mid Century.

Just a play on words.

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Mid Century . . . . . .

Question for Axiom Autoroute owners

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I am looking at getting this machine and have a question. I plan to use V Carve Pro 8 to make signs and the signs will require 2 to 3 bit changes, will the system stop for a bit change and then go on?

Question for Axiom Autoroute owners

vendredi 30 octobre 2015

Time to upgrade the F truck bumper?

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How it is now! Image: http://ift.tt/1N0Yymo How it should be! Image: http://ift.tt/20hwipb :D

Time to upgrade the F truck bumper?

G0766 - erratic speed control?

When I first got my G0766 2 months ago, I noticed that sometimes the speed control was erratic. As I was turning it CW, it would speed up but it would sometimes stop. Now it seems to be getting worse.

When I first start up, I'll turn the speed control clockwise and it will start running at a low rpm. Then there may be a dead spot and it'll stop. If I advance the control further, it will restart. If I advance further, it may either speed up or stop. If I "wiggle" the speed control it seems to eventually respond. Today I was running at a low speed - - perhaps 400 rpm - - after a few seconds it stopped. When it stops, I often hear a clicking from the controller. I can get it restarted, but it is a growing irritation.

I suspect that I have a noisy potentiometer. It is a low-cost part. However, it is possible that it could be the controller. I am a bit reluctant to complain to Grizzly because the last time they sent me a new (complete) headstock it had "crappy" threads on the spindle. Also, I don't look forward to shipping back a 200 pound part. (BTW, last time I got involved with shipping something back, I ended up with a $1000 shipping bill from UPS. It was a mistake that Grizzly corrected, but there was an element of "hassle".)

My questions:
1. Are others having this problem?
2. If I pulled the cover to the controller, are there visual diagnostics that I could use?
3. Has anyone replaced their potentiometer (basically a variable resistor that controls the speed ?

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G0766 - erratic speed control?

Slate etched pattern 'coming off'

I have a sample coaster that has been lasered with a logo. Looked great initially, but the artwork is easily removed.

A bit of a scratch with a fingernail and the artwork comes off, like it was printed on. I took a video of this which I might be able to post here, but a bit worried.

I'm used to sandblasting which gives a deep white etch and appreciate that the laser is only going to 'mark' the surface rather than deeply etch it, but surely that's a permanent mark and not something that can be easily removed with a fingernail?

Id be concerned sending that to a customer as the slightest abrasion with a glass or coffee cup would soon render it useless.

any ideas what has gone wrong with it? I quite fancied a bit of slate work but I'll not bother if that's going to happen. I've seen everyone else's slate items and they look great, with a white image, this was a beige image to start with like a print.

its a sample supplied by a laser machine supplier, not something I've bodged up myself.

Cheers

dj

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Slate etched pattern 'coming off'

Laser Engraved Pumpkin 2015

Epilog Mini 24 - 45 Watt, Corel Draw X5, Wacom Intuos Tablet, Unengraved HP Laptop, with many more toys to come.....

If you have an apple and I have an apple and we exchange apples then you and I will still each have one apple. But if you have an idea and I have one idea and we exchange these ideas, then each of us will have two ideas... George B. Shaw

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Laser Engraved Pumpkin 2015

Jessem "Paralign" question

Viewed the Jessem videos for both 08300 ( Paralign ) and the smaller 08350

08350 demonstrates the method for making a T joint with vertically oriented holes.
08300 video does not, is it possible with this model ?

Picture attaching a 1 x 2 cross stringer/stretcher to the mid point inner face of a 1 x 4 table apron.

I would prefer the built in clamping of the Paralign model but not at the expense of not being able to perform this operation.

Thank you for your replies.

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Jessem "Paralign" question

Is bigger than a 12" swing that much of a difference?

I actually have 3 lathes. A Delta midi, Jet midi, and a PM 90. I started with the Delta (Lowes close out $130) and began making pens and small objects. I thought I really needed a variable speed, so I bought the Jet. Nice, but could have easily survived with the Delta. I bought the PM 90 at a school auction and changed to single phase. I used a relay to bypassed the original stop with reeves control. This PM 90 was the slower speed 500-2000. Since I bypassed the original stop the lathe goes much lower than 500, guessing around 300 which is nice. I can turn pens fairly well and have sold them, but I am a novice at bowl turning. I have turned a few small lidded boxes. I just turned a bowl that is about 10 1/2" X 4", the biggest I have turned so far. I really don't plan on selling anything. I'll post the bowl for comments when complete. Finally getting to my question, this seems to be a nice size bowl. Is there a reason to be able to turn much larger bowls? $ wise my only hope would be the G0766. Yes more hp and other things, but would I be better off buying better turning tools? I do have a few Sorby, but also some HF that I use. I guess I am wonder how many times I would have a blank to turn larger bowls and just lathe size wise is it worth it. The PM 90 is rock solid and works well. I have faceplates and chucks for it. Maybe better turning tools would be wiser. What are the advantages?

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Is bigger than a 12" swing that much of a difference?

jeudi 29 octobre 2015

770 and 740 DeWalt RAS commonality

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Does anyone know if the DW740 and 770 radial arm saws share parts in common? They look identical except for the motors (frame 350 in the former and frame 236 in the latter).

770 and 740 DeWalt RAS commonality

Best pad for buffing wax?

I've been thinking about getting a 6" RAS for occasional sanding, & occasional waxing / polishing of my truck.

As I occasionally like to finish large w-working pieces in oil, with a wax top coat, I thought it might be nice to use the same unit for the final buffing. (not the application itself, of course.)

Does anyone do this?

Would 6" actually be too big? (I could instead get a polishing kit for my 3.5" Festool RO90 DX)

Is there a reason NOT to use a machine for this? (I assume one would only apply light pressure)

If this IS a good idea, can anyone recommend a REALLY good pad, specifically for buffing out Renaissance wax?

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Best pad for buffing wax?

Bosch Compound Miter Saw & Gravity Stand - Greensboro, NC

Buy a practically new Bosch CM10GD 10" compound bevel glide compound miter saw and a Bosch T4 Gravity Rise Stand. Together, these sell for $900, see links below. I'm selling this because I don't have room for it in my new shop. My price is firm because its such a markdown below new retail and it is practically new. I've only cut a few boards on it. I'm not willing to sell separately. This thing barely has any dust on it. Perfect condition.

http://ift.tt/20eg803

http://ift.tt/1ScnP1o

PM me for pictures.

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Bosch Compound Miter Saw & Gravity Stand - Greensboro, NC

Thickness of spruce ladder legs?

I am making a 5 foot tall ladder for a storage area in my cabin from Sitka Spruce that I have milled from a windfall on my property. I don't know how to determine how thick the sides should be. It needs to be as light as possible since it will be portable. Most wooden step ladder legs are 3/4" thick and purport to support a load of 250 lbs, but are made of fir or hemlock. Sitka spruce is supposed to be very strong for its weight.

One inch by 5 inches would be great since I already have some milled to that thickness, but maybe it should be 1 1/2? The steps will be 1" thick, dadoed 3/8" into the legs, but won't have the wire understrap that wooden step ladders have. This ladder will not be subject to weather, but might have to support up to a 250 lb. load. How does one determine this?

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Thickness of spruce ladder legs?

Power Supply Question...

My laser (a Chinese 40W) has a MYJG40W PS. When I go look it up on Google, the specs say 30kV Trigger and 20mA. Which is 60W. Is it that the actual voltage drops after triggering? Or the components aren't rated higher?

I'm thinking of making an upgrade with a 40W tube (820mm long) as opposed to the 32W (730mm, I think). I just cut hardwoods, it's for a hobby and not a business. I'm thinking I add parts a lot cheaper than buying a bigger machine.

Thanks in advance.

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Power Supply Question...

Another Sharpening Post

I finished the bath Wall Cabinet and it is hung.

Work is insane, when between projects and tired from work like now my shop offers a sanctuary but little is done. Mostly I will spend my time sitting at the work bench holding tools, rearranging tools, and tool maintenance.

BTW, I've round heels when it comes to sharpening systems and am rarely a purest to any one way but lean towards use of natural stones.

Last night was one of those times but I had a little extra energy and as I've been thinking of adding Jnat stones to the mix I thought I would do an A/B test of diamond/oil stone/strop vs. Shapton ceramic stones. To make it interesting I used my normal freehand method on the oil stones and the new LN jig on the Shapton's. The irons were two 2" LV PM-v11, mounted in a LN #4 and a LV #4. While the test was purely subjective, I can say there was little to no difference in the shavings or the surface left. Effort to plane, again little difference but if I had to pick one I would pick the oil stone iron. That of course could just be my natural bias to oil stones. The "bing" of the bevel, the Shapton's win hands down, the Shapton's sure can polish iron. After many passes on some Cherry with each I looked at the edges through a 20X loop and the oil stone edge was still pristine, the Shapton, good but not perfect.

As I said: purely subjective, could the results be repeated by someone else....maybe, maybe not. Bottom line, I found it instructive and confirming my bias toward natural stones. AS always with anything wood....YMMV.

ken

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Another Sharpening Post

I found a Hammer A3-31

Two years old and the guy is asking $3100. Has the silent head. Accessories include mobility kit, cleaning kit and metric and imperial digital hand wheels. Deal or no deal?

The machine is 1500 miles from me so I will have to drive it back, can probably fly there and rent a U-Haul to drive back.

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I found a Hammer A3-31

someone is interested in our Mini60-Plus?

Model: 220V 40w Mini60-Plus
Price: USD 3900+shipping cost(pay on delivery)
Warranty: the same as our other new customers, 14 months for the machine, and 6 months for laser tube, focus lenses, reflective mirrors and other external parts.
why sell it: The machine has arrived in San Francisco USA and customs clearance and taxes are completed.
Any American friends want to buy?
One of our Chinese customer who lives in Sanfrancisco mistakenly buy the 220 Mini-60 40w. We thought he lives in China and didn't confirm voltage... Now he wants to resell it.
If you are interested in it, please contact with Thunder Laser. Thank you!
you can buy a transformer, and you can use the machine in 110V.
my email is nolan@thunderlaser.com

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someone is interested in our Mini60-Plus?

mercredi 28 octobre 2015

Cement Glue/Epoxy/Other What is best on spruce/construction grade lumber

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Hello, I have to glue t-nuts into a spruce table top. The T-nut will receive a bolt from the table legs. I was wondering what is the best adhesive to use so that the T-Nuts do not move out of place if I over tighten the bolts? Cheers

Cement Glue/Epoxy/Other What is best on spruce/construction grade lumber

Big Thank You to The Saw Mill Creek Community, Trotec AU & Phil Vernon

Hi All,

For those that followed my original thread here its now coming up to 1 month of owning my new Trotec Speedy 300 and I just felt it right to say a big thank you to The Saw Mill Creek Community, Trotec Australia and specifically Phil Vernon for helping through the entire process of digesting all the info, choosing a machine, getting it setup and turning what started out as a dream into a reality.

Since the 1st day the machine arrived it has been rather smooth sailing, my business is rolling along and our website will be up and running right on schedule.

Big Thanks to all that helped me in the original thread, there was so much info I had to digest and work through to determine what was right for me, without your help I doubt it would have been as smooth sailing as it has been, you guys are great and I really appreciate how honest you all are, this is really a great community to be part of and I'm proud to be in it.

The machine is incredible, I am still very happy with my decision and do not regret going for the Trotec, it has been exceptional to work with, very precise and so so fast, The Trotec Team in AU are awesome to deal with, level of care if 2nd to none, a good example was a small issue with my Rotary device and without even asking they replace it with a new one so i am not having to deal with any issues, kinda blew me away really, emails are responded to quickly and the onsite training was great.

And a BIG BIG thanks to Phil, without you pushing me to rethink my original decisions and go to the show in Melbourne I may have ended up with a setup I would have regretted getting down the line, I really do appreciate the support you have given me and off your own back, taking my calls at weird hours with my questions. Thank you, I still owe you at least a crate for your help

As a side business I can't play all day but I've attached some of the work that i've been able to get done in the small time I have had the machine

Thanks again all, you have all been a big help to make this dream come true

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Big Thank You to The Saw Mill Creek Community, Trotec AU & Phil Vernon

Thickness planer rental?

I need a portable thickness planer for a project - but only need it for this project. I've been checking around the various rental places in my area, but can't find one. Is it likely that they would rent this type of machine? I don't know anyone that has a portable unit. Any ideas?

Because of the nature of this tool, I kind of doubt it will be rentable, but I can't really buy one at this moment. I've checked Craigslist, and there are some deals but I don't have a lot of time to mess with getting an older unit working.

Thanks!

John

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Thickness planer rental?

Best Under $2500 CNC

I am in the market for a new CNC to replace my Probotix X-90. I am looking to increase the XY size to about 24x24. The X-90 has been a good machine but it balks at running much over 20 ipm for 3D machining and the cutting dimensions are 18 x 18. I have been thinking about a Zenbot 24x24 with a Gecko controller. I did look at the X-Carve which has a 30 x 30 bed but it seems like there has been a lot of talk at their forum of issues arising from the newness of the machine. Does anyone have any recommendations or comments regarding these machines or others that might fit the low cost, medium bed category.

Thanks for your help

Tom Hyatt

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Best Under $2500 CNC

Having trouble with miter....

I'm trying to create a repeatable 60 degree miter on a RAS but am having a heck of a time getting my miters exact enough to have no (or at least an even) gap between the pieces when put together.

I'm using a professional quality RAS. I've set the saw to 60 degrees, cut the first angle, then used it to place a stop block on the saw's miter table. At 60, the triangle has gaps in the center. To compensate, I set the miter to 59 degrees. Now the gap is on the tip of the triangle.

I've gone through several 1*4*6' trying different tweaks, but no luck. Any suggestions? I've uploaded a couple of pictures showing what I'm trying to do and the angles I've come up with.

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Having trouble with miter....

DSL speed question Modems....

Got Verizon DSL The enhance DSL internet. Whatever that means. As I recall , it was suposed to be 3Mbps DSL.. Well, I ran the speed test 4 times , and getting anywhere from 3.05 to 3.20 Mbps. Now, they have different higher speeds . The next highest goes up to 7,1 Mbps and the highest speed goes up to 15Mbps. I have an old Westell327w Router. gateway / modem . Not sure exactly what they call it.

1. Would I get faster speeds from a different gateway/ router/ modem ?

2. Anyone got the 15Mbps ? What does it cost and how can I tell if my line can handle that speed ?

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DSL speed question Modems....

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mardi 27 octobre 2015

West System Epoxy

I don't post a lot of threads on how to do this, or product reviews, but, what the heck......maybe another newbie would appreciate this thread.

I have been getting a lot of new business on dressers, night stands and occasional tables; everyone seems to want them in Walnut. As most of us do, I choose the wood for the top first, then the drawer fronts, and set it aside; it's easier to use the less than perfect wood for the legs and stringers (as my son and I call it). Not to long ago I read an article about West System Epoxy (think it was the wood wisperer) and filling flaws in wood....like knots, worm holes, slight splits, etc. I have to say that I consider this a major changer in my builds, my business.

This is a great product that I add sawdust to and create what would be a thrown out piece of wood to a great piece of wood, acceptable piece. The way I do it is to joint and then plane to approx 1/16 thicker than what I need the thickness to be. I then take the epoxy finish with the same sawdust from the piece I'm working on and fill any blemishes. The next day, once cured, I then run through the planer to the final finish. To me, this method allows me to use so much more wood than before, and minimizes the need to find each "perfect" board.

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West System Epoxy

Desktop Pen Display Box with Inlay Build Pics- Part 2

This is part two of a previous post that is probably a few pages back. Despite expert coaching from Brian H., I have no idea how to make the pictures appear larger without clicking on them. Because the work is pretty small, you may have to click on them to see.

After the initial string inlay was completed framing the carcass sides, I decided to add my Mom’s initials. Again, this would’ve been a lot easier to do before assembly (note to self, next time have a plan). Fortunately all her initials are straight lines – I cut the recesses with an Exacto knife and the tiny little chisel that is part of Lee Valley stringing kit. The Holly inlay are straight-line segments cut to fit. In my previous line and berry attempts, I didn't have any Holly andJust glued a couple sheets of dyed white veneer together to make the inlay material.Actual Holly is way better. One of the most difficult things for me was to try and thickness the Holly inlay to the width of the inlay groove. I believe LN and LV sell tools to do this. I am too cheap to buy them. I tried pulling the inlay material through the throat of the bench plane to get it to the appropriate thickness -that didn't work at all. I ended up just sanding it against the bench – not very much fun.
1.jpg

I’m not sure what you call these little decorative inlay elements in the corner. As mentioned previously, I should have cut these recesses before doing the outline inlay, that would’ve let me put the pivot point of the inlay cutter (kind of like a compass) in the outline groove that would be covered up with inlay. Because that wasn’t feasible and because the bracket feet prevented the inlay cutter from pivoting through the full ark to cut the recess, I just cut them freehand with an Exacto knife, which perhaps sounds harder than it really is.
3.jpg 4.jpg

Normally these corner inlay elements are used in a frame that is closer to a square, which gives enough room to expand the end of the arc so that when the dowels are added to create little “berries” there is enough separation to make them look reasonable. Because of my condensed dimensions, the berries are too crowded, but at this point I was just trying to “get her done”.

Heart inlay – image from the Internet. Cut the heart first and then traced rounded for the recess. A Dremel tool with a tiny router caller and flat and bit his super helpful for getting a uniform depth.
5.jpg 7.jpg2.jpg8.jpg9.jpg

In total, inlay probably took me the equivalent of two full days I didn’t really enjoy; tough on my eyes and arthritic fingers.

.

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Desktop Pen Display Box with Inlay Build Pics- Part 2

105" 1/2" 3 TPI Lenox Tri-Master

I tried several blades on my old Delta 14" with riser, but since I've gotten the 24" Centauro going, there will be no resawing done on this machine. I sawed maybe 20' of 6" Heart Cypress with it. This Cypress sawdust is not what I would call gummy, but is sticky. Nothing is stuck to the blade, but just for reference, it doesn't clear this kind of sawdust from the cut very well. Neither did a Resaw King. This Tri-Master cut is pretty comparable to the Resaw King (already sold that one locally). It does require a bit more tension to properly tension it than the RK does, but nothing the old Delta complained about, and no noticeable anything on the orange Urethane tires.

To start with, it's not as sharp as a Timber Wolf, but is sharper than a TW that has been used for an hour. I don't know how many feet it will cut, since I used neither this one or the RK to amount to anything.

I don't know if I can get the plastic cover back on the blade to ship it, but will pack carefully anyway. It came from Highland Woodworking: http://ift.tt/1OWw2Ix

100 bucks shipped to CONUS. Paypal or personal check okay.

PM with shipping details

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105" 1/2" 3 TPI Lenox Tri-Master

Wooden Radiator Cover Plans

I am building the first of many radiator covers to replace the metal ones in my house. I am building it out of poplar and will be painting it white to match the trim. I am torn between two possible ways I can see to make the radiator itself accessible for cleaning etc. First is to assemble the 2 sides and front and simple slide the cover into place and have the baseboard butt up to the cover with enough room to slide the cover in and out but I am worried kids will be tempted to play with the cover and get to the radiator. Second way is to permanetly attach the two sides of the cover to the frame work around the radiator then attach the front to the sides with the use of hinges and ultimately have a latch to secure the front. Then when needed the front can be swung open to access the radiator and I beleive this way I will be able to hide the latch inside where it will be harder for a kid to access. Feel free to critise my plans and provide any suggestions about the two ways to secure the cover. I am a young homeowner that has tons to learn about woodworking and am very open to getting suggestions from people with more experience then me.

Original Cover

Old cover removed and lumber attached to secure metal ducting around radiator

Plans for new cover

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Wooden Radiator Cover Plans

Best Vendor for Full Extension drawer slides

I need to purchase about 12 sets of 18" full extension ball bearing drawer slides, 75-100 lb rating would be fine. Don't need any special features such as soft close, these are just for some shop cabinets, nothing fancy. I know I've seen these for $10 or less purchased in quantities, but all the vendors I check seems like they are priced more in the $13-$17 range. Any suggestions? thanks-

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Best Vendor for Full Extension drawer slides

UK Trophy Supply Question

Corel Draw X7 on Windows 7 and iMac (via Parallels)
V Carve Pro v8 & Photo V Carve; Ucancam v9, Lasercut 5.3
60w EFI 6090 & 100w Z4 Reci 6090 G Weike Lasers
J Cut 4 X 4 CNC Router & All sorts of other Woodwork Machinery
CLTT using Oki C822dn & Adkins Press
Sandblasting

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UK Trophy Supply Question

Anyone replaced an RF laser tube with a glass one?

Hi all,

I have an Epilog Legend 24 30W and unfortunately it's time to tend to the tube.

I'm considering a recharge of my tube or replacement with a glass one. Has anyone actually done this and can provide any and all info regarding the pros and cons, as well as anything pertinent to the actual process itself?

I understand that up to around 50W the quality of engraving is comparable. Is this true?

Apart from the tube, power supply, and water cooling, does anything else change?

Can I keep the same controls?

What about the driver on my PC?

Can I continue using CorelDraw to prepare jobs as before?

Any and all info is appreciated.

TIA,
Ruvane.

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Anyone replaced an RF laser tube with a glass one?

lundi 26 octobre 2015

Anybody use the Williams forseair counterflow electric wall furnace

I need to put heat in my shop and was looking at this from Home Depot. My shop is 30 X 16 with r13 in the walls and r19 in the cieling on a slab. It is detached at 125' from the house. I have a sub panel with plenty of room for more breakers. No access to gas or propane and a heat pump is out of the question. Anybody have any thoughts. This has become my full time gig, so I will be out there all day every day.

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Anybody use the Williams forseair counterflow electric wall furnace

Tablesaw Outfeed table.....Uh Oh!

I am in the process of completing a tablesaw outfeed table roughly patterned after one in Fine Wood Working.

The top is removable and made from 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood screwed and glued together. After edging it with some scrap white oak, I glued on white Formica and chamfered the Formica/white oak edges. I was ready to route in the miter slots when it dawned on me......I don't know where the screws are located.

When building the top, using a square, I had marked out a 4" grid on the entire top. After putting glue on between the two sheets of plywood, I used the aforementioned grid and put a steel screw every 4". Yeah, I know...overkill again! Then I installed the Formica. Unfortunately, the screwheads are under the Formica. Grrrrrr.......

I tried using one of my new multi-talented electronic stud finders that has a metal sensing function. It located the screws but only within a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square. The distance between the miter slots is such that I needed a closer tolerance. I tried desensitizing the stud finder by installing pieces of cardboard under it. It didn't work as my new one uses "auto-calibration". My old electronic one you set the sensitivity but it wouldn't sense metal and I could not find it anyway.

Several decades ago I had a simple magnetic stud locator that was just a cylindrical magnet with an axle that allowed the cylinder to rotate and point to the magnetic material. Eureka. I don't have that one any more. A shopping trip to a local HD didn't result in finding one but I was able purchase one at a local Ace Hardware stop. It allowed me to locate the screws under the Formica top to a 1/4" by 1/4" area.

A $4 tool is cheaper than a new carbide router bit or an emergency room trip.

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Tablesaw Outfeed table.....Uh Oh!

Collet chuck

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Anyone have a collet Chuck set they would like to part with, pm me if you do. Thanks for looking.

Collet chuck

help with refinishing a rosewood tote

Howdy all,

I have a nice #3 bailey (t16) that i picked from a box of tools at a flea market. The japaning is 98% but the knob and tote were pretty pitiful. For some reason I decided to refinish rather than just BLO it and i'm stumped now. It seems no amount of sanding will take the darkness away. I'm changing the paper but now after an hour of hand sanding it's still dark. What to do now. Do i hit it with some paint remover?

Thanks, Mark...wishing he had never gone down this road...

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help with refinishing a rosewood tote

Electrical Motor Question

So i bought the Jet 16/32 I mentioned in another post. I think I got a good deal but have a concern. The light on the smart sand box does not come on which didn't really concern me. What does concern me is: Even when unplugged the smart sand motor housing is magnetic. I'm sure this isn't normal but don't know squat about electrical and wiring and all that. It is wired 110v and runs, just didn't seem to move all that fast. I took the cover off the smart sand unit and the circuit board is NOT broken. Any thoughts or advice on how to proceed here?

Thanks...

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Electrical Motor Question

1624 Vision Engraving System

I have a complete engraver for sale for $3250. The table is 16" x 24" with a Vision Series 2 controller. Computer is included that has Window XP with Vision Pro 5 software. Can upgrade to Vision Pro 9 for approx. $750. This is a complete setup that has been used over the years engraving metal but can also be used for engraving plastic/acrylic, wood and other metals. This is a great system that has great potential. Check out http://ift.tt/1f7tCWP for additional option and additions to the system. The only know problem is the power switch on the controller is always on, which is not a problem since the system has been turn on/off with a power strip. Pick up system or you will need to arrange shipment which is located in Goldsboro, NC 27534 at places of business. Weight of everything is approx 300lbs. Please don't hesitate to contact with any questions.

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1624 Vision Engraving System

Shenhui Fan removal and Table leveling...

I haven't been able to find answers via search...

Machine: Ebay Shenhui 350D like this: http://ift.tt/1RwDo37

First: I bought a blower motor and still have the original exhaust fan connected. I'd like to remove it, but I am not sure what I need to cut/disconnect or otherwise render to get rid of it safely.

Second: I removed the crappy table cover (minimal air flow) leaving the frame and have some honeycomb on order. I have since discovered that my table frame is not level with the x axis nor the y axis. It is a manual operation to move the frame up and down via knob. What should I level first? What is the best way to level the table?

Third: Lens... Convex side down or up on this machine?

Thank you all so much for the awesome forum!!

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Shenhui Fan removal and Table leveling...

dimanche 25 octobre 2015

FS: Dewalt MBF Radial Arm Saw - Las Vegas, NV

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I am selling a Dewalt MBF Radial Arm Saw. a previous owner modified it and added a switch on the front. The original key switch on it still works as well. Asking $120 or make an offer. Image:...

FS: Dewalt MBF Radial Arm Saw - Las Vegas, NV

how to wire an illuminated rocker switch

I have this switch, it is supposed to be illuminated but I can figure out how, there were no wiring diagrams etc when I bought it, here are some pics, any help would be appreciated, i have them setup so they control my lathe like I need temperature to, I just want them to light up so I can tell when it's on.

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how to wire an illuminated rocker switch

3 books for $28 shipped CONUS Blue Set

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SHop Drawings for craftsman Interiors Crafting wooden Lamps How to Crave WoodAttachment 324072 (http://ift.tt/1LVNg6u)Attachment 324073 (http://ift.tt/1LPXGky)Attachment 324074...

3 books for $28 shipped CONUS Blue Set

Hard Wax Oil on Kitchen Cabinets

Hi all. I want to finish my new kitchen cabinets with Polyx Hard Wax Oil because I LOVE the finish. I have read many things saying that it's great for cabinetry, but I've also read posts from people saying don't use it on kitchen cabs. Any real world experience with any hard wax oil on kitchen cabs? I have heard that it may not be durable, but since it's used on floors to rave reviews, why would that not extend to cabinetry? BTW, I don't cook a ton with grease flying around, and I don't have upper cabinets, so it may not get as much wear and tear as a kitchen for people who cook extensively.

I know that spraying is often said to achieve the best finish, but it's just something that's problematic for me, for reasons that I won't get into. If I have to, I'll apply a poly or some other finish, but my first choice is the hard wax.

Looking forward to any help.

Thx
Sue

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Hard Wax Oil on Kitchen Cabinets

Looking for ideas on how to take over a business

Hi all,

So I have been in the furniture making business for a little over a year now. As many of you know it ain't easy. I have found that while I have spent 80% of my marketing and exp on my furniture business 80% of my income has come from Contracting and on site work. I have not even tried to build up that business, it has all come from friends and word of mouth.

I have recently been taken on as a sub working for a contractor who is currently doing work on his own property. He is 70 years old and is currently getting out of the business. He is only taking on small jobs to help offset his costs associated with the work he needs done on his properties. Over the last few years he was planning on his son taking over the business but his relationship went south and his son got a killer oppurtunity working for a large construction company so do to age and no longer having a family member to take over he has slowly been downsizing and focusing on getting his own stuff done while he still has 1 employee and the energy to complete the necissary work.

So here is the situation. His one employee sees how things are going and he has gotten a new job and giving notice tomorrow. So now his one employee is gone. He now needs help and for me to keep growing I need help. We both need a worker, he is getting out of a business and I am gearing up to start one.

Back ground on his business. He is known as one of the top tile, marble and plasterers in Philadelphia area. While those are his specialities he handles all aspects of a GC. While he is difficult his reputation is incredible and he caters to only high end clients with big budgets. I see the calls he gets and hear the conversations where he is pushing them away. He is one of the owners of the building I rent from so I know what he managed to build up over the years.

I don't have money to try and buy him out and I would need him to transition and mentor me for several years anyway. My question or the ideas I am looking for is how to pitch him to get him to trasition the business to me that would be finicially beificial for him as well as me.

Currently my thoughts are to get him to up my sub rate to include enough for an employee or two so he no longer has to deal with managing etc and I then have the funds to hire some guys with his work and what else I get in. Then to try and work out a percentage of business he brings in through calls where I would supply the man power and he would effectively act as a consultant on the job or GC. This would go on for 3 years with a strong transition at the end of year two. At the end of year 3 we evaluate the business and go from there. Thoughts?

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Looking for ideas on how to take over a business

Powermatic 3520B Tool Rest Extension Post

I planned to build my own bed extension for large outboard turning so bought this extension and lock handle from Powermatic. I ended up finding a used extension kit (thanks to a fellow creeker) which included a post so no longer need this one.

I paid $100 - how about $50 shipped.

Please PM me if interested.

Thanks,

Mike

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Powermatic 3520B Tool Rest Extension Post

Grand house up for auctioin

If you have a few million you can bid on it. I worked on it for 8 yrs in total..Four yrs as the cabinet maker, doors, window seats anything with raised panels. The Japanese Shoji, bed & other cabinets. I don't take credit for it all but most of the fine wood working...Mostly made from Mahogany. Kitchen cabinets are Jotba & the cabinets int the carriage house are Purple Heart....It was fun doing it because my wife & I designed the woodwork & the owner gave us free rein. Shame it's a auction.....I come here & look at everyone else work...well here you go...
http://ift.tt/1jHTfBx

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Grand house up for auctioin

samedi 24 octobre 2015

Had the basement insulated with that pink spray foam...

Had the Basement insulated with that pink spray foam stuff. Insulation contractor came out with a few people and they did the job in just under 3 hours. They sprayed where the basement walls meet the floor joists and around the windows and door leading to the stairs that head on up to the steel bilco door. Was told not to go in the basement for at least 24 hrs.

Will, it rained pretty good tonight, and I wanted to see how wet and humid the basement was. OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Basement is almost BONE DRY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sure, there is a little water coming in the basement, either from a few pine holes in the basement wall on the East side that does not have gutters , or from the old Bilco door on the same side , but it is a heck of a lot better than it was before.

Question.

Is that spray foam they use supposed to be waterproof or water resistant? Never thought it was.

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Had the basement insulated with that pink spray foam...

My new DeWalt MBF

DSCN1287.jpgDSCN1289.jpg

First, thanks to everyone at the Creek who's answered my questions about the DeWalt MBF over the last few weeks. You were a great help!

I finally picked the saw up today. The rip pawl is missing (but I'm not going to use it for ripping) and it's going to need new motor bearings. But the arm ways seem clean, the carriage bearings all rotate freely, and all of the adjustments work. The original table is a bit abused, but still flat and salvageable. For $60, I'm very happy.

Soon as I have it cleaned up and in working order, I'll sell my Craftsman RAS and put this one on the Craftman's base.

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My new DeWalt MBF

bandsaw lower guide bearings?

Just picked up a second band saw which has double roller bearing guides top and bottom. In another thread later I'll talk about WHICH band saw I bought so that some here can lose their dentures in disgust - but that is for a later story!

The bearings are all 6202Z which are shielded bearings - a strange choice I think. The uppers were fine, but the lowers were in various states of tight condition and in the rear single bearings case frozen solid!

I was thinking of replacing all of the bearings under the table with 2RS sealed bearings. Any reason why this would not be a good idea - presumably the manufacturer had a reason for using shielded bearings but I can't think what it would be?

thanks.

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bandsaw lower guide bearings?

What's the difference between DMT Duosharp and Whetstone??

Looking to get into handplanes and need to invest in the sharpening setup that goes with it. From my research thus far, most seem to recommend the DMT stones over the EZE-lap ones as they last longer and people were having issues with the EZE-lap ones not coming/staying flat.

The double sided part aside, both are diamond sharpening stones with a non-continuous surface. They don't list anything on their site, nor can I find any comparisons online. The reviews on Amazon don't list anything specific.

What is the difference between the two? Is one better than the other? I'm a firm believer in buy once cry once, so if it's more expensive but has significant advantages or will last longer, then I'm all for it.

Or is it worth looking into ceramic stones? Read a couple marathon threads on here that never really conclusively lean one way or the other.

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What's the difference between DMT Duosharp and Whetstone??

Well I am attempting


Roy Sanders
Knot to Pen Custom Turned Pens

Platte City, Missouri. USA

CorelDraw x 6
CorelLaser
LaserDrw
Nice-Cut NC-4040 Tabletop Laser 40W

12" Craftsman Table Saw
12" Craftsman Band Saw
Craftsman Scroll Saws
DeWalt Thickness Planer
!0" Wood Lathe
Vacuum Chamber
Pressure Pot

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Well I am attempting

Woodworking Vs. Carpentry...What is the Distinction to You?

Carpenters don't measure smaller than 1/16".
All the good ones I know do, repeatedly and with great accuracy.

Carpenters-the real ones- mostly concentrate on the built environment. Fully trained and skilled carpenters are able to take a building from the hole in the ground to finishing the cabinets and woodwork in accordance to plans with accuracy and fidelity. It is- at least, used to be, a trained career trade requiring a wide range of skill sets.

"Woodworking" most often covers making arts and crafts, some furniture, jewel boxes and trunks, and assorted objets d' art. Most often, woodworkers are talented people than are able to visualize an object and make it with little more than sketches; accuracy and fidelity are often not as important as interpretation and execution.

There are the various other trades involved in woodworking, most notably furniture makers and cabinet makers. These are- again, at least used to be- trained professions requiring specialized knowledge and skills.

There are many "specialized' offshoots of the trades these days and a lot of self taught "pros". I don't always agree with a lot of it.

Mark
Trained, career carpenter of forty years and proud of it

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Woodworking Vs. Carpentry...What is the Distinction to You?

General purpose plane recommendations

Kent,

First congrats on seeing the light! Working with hand tools is very enjoyable (except for that sharpening business) plus there's no noise, no dust. It's often even a faster process than setting up a powered rig.

However, there is to answer to your question. There's simply no one plane that can do it all, not even in a pinch. You first have to decide which tasks will be most critical to you, and that might mean looking at your current shop and seeing which tasks are not covered well by you powered tools. I HIGHLY recommend that you adjust your expectations here, and consider going home with at least 2 or 3 items. (plus some kind of sharpening rig. At an absolute minimum, you'll need an 8K stone.)

Short of knowing this, some of the most essential tools:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A smoother, meaning something in the 8" - 12" range, with a non-cambered blade set for a light cut. Your sandpaper will now last a lot longer.

A jack or try plane, for removing more stock quickly. - You could theoretically not have one, at least in the beginning, but doing this job with a soother will get old really fast. Plus, you'll end up spending too much time re-honing the blade. Plus, the jack plane's blade should have a medium camber, which the smoother does not. (You see? what you CAN use and what will give you proper service are two different things.)

A low angle block plane, used primarily for trimming end grain, but also useful for small touch ups here & there.

(And already, neither of these can really do the job of the other one.)

A Jointer, but only if you intend to flatten the edges of long boards by hand. Jointers can be helpful also with flattening table tops etc but they are far from essential.

A pair of winding sticks. (You can also just make your own.) - Essential for face-planing larger stock.

A couple of very good hand saws. - I personally prefer Japanese style, but LN sells some lovely western saws that will serve you very well.

Last on my personal list of "absolutely essential" items is a shooting board, so you can cut oversized, then sneak-up on the final dimensions. (especially with miters.) A shooting PLANE is great to have also, but NOT essential.

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General purpose plane recommendations

Curly Maple Box

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Made a keepsake box as a present for my girlfriend. First time working with this wood but pictures don't do the grain justice. Attachment 323968 (http://ift.tt/1WasGpz)Attachment 323967 (http://ift.tt/1LsTmKb)

Curly Maple Box

vendredi 23 octobre 2015

Vanguard IRA customer service

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All have great service when you are sending them money. I would like to hear from people who have invested with Vanguard then, Want to start withdrawing money at retirement. -Any problems? -Do you have to keep calling to get issues resolved?

Vanguard IRA customer service

Trotec lenses?

Hi folks! Its been a while since I've posted anything on here but I have a quick question. I just bought a 2.5 lens from Trotec, and the noticed they have them on Amizon for half or even less the money. I also notices they have a medium grade and premium grade. My question is what is the difference between Trotecs and these supposed knock offs, if any? Thanks, Jeff from Bellwether Laser LLC...

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Trotec lenses?

Bottle stoppers, bottle openers, and tea light holders....whats your favorite finish?

Hi all

I am starting on my holiday gifts and am looking for advice on what type of finish is easy to apply and durable for each. My gift list consists of bottle stoppers, bottle openers, and tea light holders.

To date, I have used HUT friction polish on bottle stoppers and bottle opener handles. It seems to hold up on the stoppers but not the bottle openers.

Since these are gifts I don't want a finishing failure to occur in a small matter of time

Thank you

George

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Bottle stoppers, bottle openers, and tea light holders....whats your favorite finish?

Trotec honeycomb table

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Do these stand up to cleaning with a pressure washer?

Trotec honeycomb table

Arthritis & Cordless Power Drills

Just wondering if anyone else has problems changing batteries in they're power drills. I have arthritis in both hands and in fact just had surgery on my thumb.
I just bought the Bosch 12V, and I'm having a devil of a time changing the batteries.
Wondering if someone has any tricks they use. I e-mailed Bosch, but they weren't much help.

Thanks

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Arthritis & Cordless Power Drills

Picking my wattage: getting conflicting information from sales reps

Hi all,

I've narrowed it down to 2 vendors, Epilog vs Trotec. I had some conflicting advice from reps with regards to the impact of the wattage I'll choose on my raster speeds. Based on all the old threads I've read on here, I'm now quite certain that the difference in rastering speed between a 50W Speedy 300, a 60W and an 80W is going to be quite significant (one vendor told me a 50 would be fine for mostly rastering). Naturally the price is also much more significant.

Can someone give me an order of magnitude with regards to the speed difference I could expect between 50, 60 and 80? I suppose the way I see it, the 50 and 60W Trotec is so much faster than everyone else in the business that it will suit my production needs. I don't intend to rent out time on my machines, so I'm not even sure I can justify an 80W at this stage. I guess my other question is how hard is it to upgrade it to 80W in 2 years once my business does justify it?

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Picking my wattage: getting conflicting information from sales reps

jeudi 22 octobre 2015

Masking / Coating Glass before Engraving

Hi All,

Most if not all the videos and documents I have read on glass engraving states to either cover in a wet newspaper for frost effect or masking tape for a smooth etched effect, this i presume is also to help stop chipping of the glass?

Any particular masking tape that is used? having a hard time finding wide rolls of masking tape in AU

Jack

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Masking / Coating Glass before Engraving

Older PM table saw, any advice?

Hello, Sorry if this is not the right place to post this. I have been looking for a table saw for awhile now. Was thinking about buying new (Bosch 4100-9), but just saw this today on Craigslist I do not know anything about it other than it is an older PM 10" contractor's saw. I assume it is the model 63 Artison one but not positive. I plan on looking at it in the morning since it is here in my hometown. Is there anything I should keep in mind when checking it out? FYI, I have never owned a table saw, but have used them many times. I figure it's time to own my own. I plan on using a TS more for hobby and around the house use. Is right tilt a deal breaker in your opinion? Appreciate any advice.

John

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Older PM table saw, any advice?

New Trotec Machine?

Many months ago I had a conversation with the President of Trotec USA and he asked me "Are you going to be at the SGIA show in Novemeber?". I told him I wasn't sure and asked why he asked. He said "I can't tell you, but if you can make it, you should try to go".

Today, I get the email from them about SGIA and these words rang out to me.....

"Trotec will be showcasing the Speedy 400 and SP 500 featuring JobControl Vision, the Speedy 360 flexx, and launching a new technology for high-volume paper cutting and engraving, as well as several other equipment from our product line. Contact us to schedule your training at the show. Come see live demos and samples at our booth."

Can't wait to see what that's all about

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New Trotec Machine?

Transpower AP200A 20" Planer Helical cutterhead?

I (along with several others I see) own a Transpower 20" planer and am having trouble finding any type of manual or parts for it. I would like to order a helical cutterhead from Grizzly but am not sure what other planer it is comparable to. I looks very much like G0454 or a PowerMatic 209 but I hate to spend $875 and have it not fit. Also Grizzly offers 2 styles ($825 and $875) and was wondering if anyone has had any luck with one over the other.--Thanks

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Transpower AP200A 20" Planer Helical cutterhead?

Oak floor boards

I did a search for oak , but seems its too short search on

I have access to a quantity of solid oak floorboards (new) and wondered if they would be any good laser onto? They appear to have some sort of sealer/varnish on them and I could quite easily cut them to size for plaques etc.

I can also lay hands on some with an oak top layer and plywood core, which won't look so good when cut to size but could be used for something.

I did read somewhere that oak might not b good to laser onto, but wasn't quite sure why.

Be interested to know what you think, otherwise they may end up as firewood which will be a shame as they have nice grain patterns and colour.

Cheers DJ

(as previous posts - I don't have a laser here as yet otherwise I'd try it myself - thought I'd get some expert opinions rather than waste my time if its no good to laser onto)

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Oak floor boards

Tall Cabinet Doors – Flat Stiles

You didn't identify the wood material/species you are using, but it certainly seems to have a lot of stress. Looks like you are painting, so perhaps use a different material? In particular I'd stay far away from softwoods.

I did some control integration/programming work in a lumber mill one time. System I was working on was a "curve saw". They fed the worst looking, bent, crooked, twisted logs you can imagine into the saw. Lasers 'read' the log and hydraulically manipulate it so the curves were always tangent to the gang saw blade cluster. It spit out multiple 2X dimension lumber (pine) with the same curve as the log. They were all stacked, pressed flat, bound, and sent to kiln.

The resulting lumber looks straight and true, but as soon as you machine it, the internal stress goes crazy. Ask a framer what building a house with it is like!

If you're trying to build cabinets out of this, you better get in touch with your inner Salvador Dali.

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Tall Cabinet Doors – Flat Stiles

Kehoe Dovetail Spine Jig

I guess they are back in business. I just got this by email.

Dear customer,

You are being contacted because you expressed an interest in buying a Kehoe Dovetail Spline Jig System as soon as they became available again after our re-tooling and the move into a larger facility was complete. That time has finally arrived. Although the new website has not yet been opened for business, that's good news for you who had asked to be put on the list because we have started manufacturing K-12 kits again just to meet the back-orders and we have a limited number available for immediate sale. K-8 and K-24 kits are soon to follow. If you would like to buy the popular K-12 kit without waiting any longer, we are offering it at a discounted price of $197.50 which includes free delivery to all 50 US states. This is a genuinely deep discount from what the regular price will be when the retail storefront opens again - this is not a sales pitch. Foreign orders will not be accepted until the website goes active in 10 to 12 weeks.

If you want a K-12 kit at this price then click the appropriate link below. The K-12 kit you receive will be tailored to your specific table saw (for making the splines) so if you have a left tilt saw, order the left tilt kit and vice-versa for right tilt. Please do not ask for a K-8 or K-24 kit because we do not have them ready just yet and we have never, nor will ever take "pre-orders".

K-12 Left Tilt

K-12 Right TIlt

Kind regards, Kevin.

I guess I will wait until their web site is back up before considering a purchase.

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Kehoe Dovetail Spine Jig

Ideal angle for top of tool rest

I am wondering what the ideal angle is for the top of a tool rest.

I have got used to using a bowl gouge and a roughing gouge at about a 45 degree angle upwards to doing a shearing or slicing cut. I tried using a tool rest with about a 30 degree angle and found that the angle was too shallow. I found that I angled the tool upwards and the tool was resting on the side of the tool rest furthest from the wood. So, in other words, I had a lot of tool hanging out there. That caused instability and tended to dig in.

I suspect that a 30 degree angle (with respect to the horizontal) would be fine for scraping or maybe skew shearing, but that it is the wrong angle for use with a bowl or roughing gouge.

I'm thinking that a better angle might be around 50 degrees (from horizontal). That would kind of guarantee that the tool would be supported close to what I'm shearing/cutting.

What do you experts think or advise ? Is a 30 degree tool rest a poor choice?

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Ideal angle for top of tool rest

mercredi 21 octobre 2015

Drawer build

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After I finish the current project (http://ift.tt/1aF2rlw), a medicine cabinet, I will start working on drawers for my cabinets that I built earlier. I will want to cut grooves for the bottoms with my router table. Would this be the correct bit to use?...

Drawer build

More WO MIlling

The second WO log was about 25" dia. and just over 8' long, so this one I milled full length. Cutting those two 6/4 cuts out of the center as I did with the first log made the width of the boards cut from the remaining sections around 6" or even less, so this time I took a different approach. I started by taking a slab of the top, turning (with brute strength and awkwardness) the log 90 deg, taking another slab off the top, and then a cut through the center.

IMG_4255.JPG

If I took the top half off the mill like I did with the 5' long logs I would have had a lot of trouble getting it back up on the mill, so I put two ratchet straps around it and turned it 90 deg again.

IMG_4256.JPG

IMG_4257.JPG

So then I started taking 4/4 and 6/4 cuts. I stopped for the night like this.

IMG_4259.JPG

As I got closer to the center I got some really nice QS boards.

IMG_4260.JPG

IMG_4261.JPG

And here's most of the boards before I cut the remaining bark edges off.

IMG_4262.JPG

After cutting the bark off those that needed it most boards were 8 - 11" wide.

IMG_4263.JPG

I got some really nice wood out of this log, mostly rift and quarter sawn, which I much prefer with white oak. I'm thinking of some nice A&C style projects a couple years down the road. I'll have plenty of wood.

John

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More WO MIlling

Issues with laser loosing placement.

Hi Guys,

I'm having a serious issue with my 120w Trotec that's been going on for about 2 weeks. The engraver seems to be loosing it's place whenever it cuts/engraves a complex file. I can open the same file on my 80w and it runs fine. but when I run it on my 120w it always looses it's position about 25-50% of the way through the file and starts cutting in a new place slightly off from where it should be. (not limited to just one file btw, it's happened with about a dozen files now). Also many times the laser has forgotten where the x/y is after it's messed up as shown in job control, it thinks the x/y is in a completely different placement than it really is. Once I close job control and restart the laser it resets back to the correct coordinates but still messes up on the next big file I run.

Trotec has sent me parts 4x now, an I/o board, an x/y motor, an x/y controller board and one other piece I cannot recall. I've replaced the usb cord. I reinstalled job control, then today I even replaced PC and had the electrician come out and run us a new wall electrial for the laser just in case it was some weird grounding issue or something. At this point I think even Trotec's stumped. I've been down 13 days now. I spoke with my rep today and called in the reinforcements and he's coming out next week, but I thought I'd ask on here if anyone has an idea so we make sure to have the right parts on hand. Has anyone ever experienced something like this?

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Issues with laser loosing placement.

22/44 hook and loop

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I am considering the idea of converting my performax 22/44 to hook and loop. Despite searching i can find no definitive confirmation that this has been actually done. If anyone has, could they please comment on their experiences, likes and dislikes.

22/44 hook and loop

Henry Allan & Sons

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I came across a saw maker that I was unfamiliar with - Henry Allan & Sons. I can't find much about them online, except, I think they may be from London. Can anyone tell me more about them and the quality of their saws?

Henry Allan & Sons

Finishing Corian

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I am making some Corian Cutting Boards. When I put a route red edge on it is a little duller than the top. what is the best way to get it to match? Thanks in advance, Kevin

Finishing Corian

Who's Ready for Winter?

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Who is the Creek has prepared for winter? I sent the snow blower in for service and have the blade attachment ready for the DR Mower. What have you done to greet Old Man Winter?

Who's Ready for Winter?

Possible causes of fuzzy engraving

Hello All,

Please see photos, this was done at 60P/45S 400dpi on 36EXT 75W

2015-10-21 17.56.06.jpg2015-10-21 18.01.08.jpg2015-10-21 18.01.34.jpg

Known issues:

  1. Tube is weak as I struggle to cut .125" acrylic in one pass, @ 100P/8S/5000F
  2. Encoder strip and reader are new
  3. Servos/encoders have been bench tested and are functioning normally
  4. Motherboard is new, and did not have any original settings saved.

I have a new tube en-route, but would like to now if there is anything else that could be causing this, such as laser match settings or any calibration? The belts and cogs are clean and in good nick, no cracks or build up. I have loosened tension bolt cycled by hand and tightened.

Thanks in advance

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Possible causes of fuzzy engraving

mardi 20 octobre 2015

Millers Falls No. 2 Chuck Mystery

Hoping this is an easy one for you neander-creekers to answer. I have a Millers Falls No 2. hand drill in excellent condition but I'm unsure whether it has the correct chuck. Everything checks out according to George Langford's type study, with the drill appearing to be a No 2i as the chuck has a patent date of Oct 23rd 1900. What casts doubt on this is the amount of exposed threads on the drill shaft. Any reason why this would be? Other than it being a miss-match and not having the correct chuck?
6525545_orig.jpg
1606496_orig.jpg
2791537_orig.jpg

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Millers Falls No. 2 Chuck Mystery

Squaring Lumber

Dear Fellow Woodworkers,

I am buying new tools for my first wood shop(see below on forum) and am buying a 17" band saw and an 8' jointer more than likely(Both grizzly). If I joint an edge and a face how feasible is it to get squared lumber with a band saw? Any tips or tricks for doing this? I researched some but haven't really seen much on the subject. A planer is in the works but probably not for a few more months to get a quality one based on my budget so far.Will a bandsaw get me close enough to finish with a sander if it won't get perfectly square?

Thanks,

Steven Fowler

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Squaring Lumber

Poly over waterlox?

Hello:

I was finishing a counter for my bar with waterlox. I was trying to get a smooth finish and I hadn't applied wood fill to the butcher block oak before I stained it.
In another post I was told to keep applying the waterlox and it would eventually level out.
My issue now is that it looks like it got oxygenated since it turned to jelly.
They do not sell waterlox anywhere around here so I had to special order it.

Can I finish with poly over the waterlox now since I do have some on hand?

Thanks!
Matt

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Poly over waterlox?

How would you join and clamp this table base?

Hi,
I'm thinking about building a variation on this table, and I'm looking for advice on how to join, and more importantly, how to glue up the table base structure. I was thinking about dominos or multiple dowels as the method of joinery for the angled brace members to the main column and feet, but it raises the question of how to assemble perpendicular joints simultaneously, and also how to clamp the joints once assembled.
I thought about gluing on a sacrificial clamping block to each angled member and sawing/planing it off after glue up?
Maybe join the upper and lower braces in two separate glue-ups?
For assembly purposes, maybe only one side of each brace can be assembled and glued at a time? For example, join the brace to the column first, and to the foot in phase 2.
(I call them braces because they remind me of truss braces).

Thanks for any advice,

7T492views3.jpg

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How would you join and clamp this table base?

help testing sample in UK

Hi All

Would anyone in the UK be able to try a sample material for me please.

I'm trying to get it tested at a supplier before I press the button on purchase (it needs to do this thing to semi justify the purchase :-) I have sent samples which 'didn't arrive', then more samples which did arrive but can't be tested as the showroom is closed during the week and engineers are needed to test and they are not in until friday :-)

The material is a thin polyester (yes I've checked) sticky backed label for want of a better word and I want to use it as an adhesive mask. Therefore the image needs to be cut/burnt away leaving the surround (an internals of letters etc) intact on the carrier sheet, for subsequent transfer using a transfer tape to the product. The material is marginally thinner than the 'lights' type material supplied by Trolase/Rowmark etc.

I'm interested to see what sort of quality can be achieved. Pretty sure its straightforward as several have posted that they 'use it all the time' so can't see it being a problem but I need to be sure as there are other machines that'll do it and I want to be sure I buy the right bit of kit. I'm talking about small lettering and logos , rather than pictures/photos, and small maybe 50mm x 50mm - that sort of size.

If any one thinks they can spare a little time to look at this for me I'd be obliged.

Please contact me by pm or email and we can sort out a sample or two to try. email address is djhutton at btinternet.com

Thanks

Dave Hutton

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help testing sample in UK

Theramark and the "marking" option in CorelLaser

50 cal replica marked copy.jpg

Hello,

I finally figured out how to MARK on my brass pens with Theramark. I really do not like the Rattle can type, and I never used the mix and spray.
I also wonder if the 'marking tape will work best. Thai's what Ill buy next. Once I fine decent Military graphics; not necessarily the military issue type I can begin taking order from Veterans,

The one here is the "replica" for enthusiast and gifts. The veteran's and their family; active also, will get the actual 'once used' casing.

I am curious if any you have thoughts, ideas, or suggestions.

Thank you for reading

Roy

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Theramark and the "marking" option in CorelLaser

Questions about moving a PM 90 or rockwell 46-450

I am looking for a lathe and found two available from the same seller. Looking at a 5 hour road trip. One is a Powermatic 90 and the other is a Rockwell 46-450. I do not own a truck or trailer, but I'm willing to rent such. What advise do you have for loading and unloading such lathes short of men with brute force? Would you hire a wrecker with an extending boom? Maybe rent a diesel engine hoist?

The PM 90 is equipped with a vfd. The rockwell has a 3 phase motor. but no vdf.

thanks

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Questions about moving a PM 90 or rockwell 46-450

How do I 'finish' pre-finished edgebanding?

I'm getting ready to do a small kitchen remodel for a client, and am thinking of using pre-finished maple plywood with 3mm iron-on pre-finished edge-banding.

After I trim the edge-banding how do I finish the 3mm raw edge?

A friend suggested I wipe the edge with BLO. I got to thinking 3-part finish or polyurethane wiped on might be good.

Any suggestions?

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How do I 'finish' pre-finished edgebanding?

lundi 19 octobre 2015

DeWalt MBF RAS dimensions

I need to figure out whether I can fit an MBF without the table in the back of a 2010 Subaru Forester. Can anyone who has one give me the width and depth of the MBF's metal base, and the height when the arm is cranked all the way down? If the base is less than about 30" wide, I can put it in sideways and not have to worry about the additional protrusion of the arm.

For that matter, maybe there's someone out there who's already moved an MBF in the back of a Subaru Forester?

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DeWalt MBF RAS dimensions

Delta Rockwell 20" bandsaw

6 bandsaws is too many so I'm downsizing a bit. Delta Rockwell 20" bandsaw. It is essentially this one http://ift.tt/1GQb1aj. Condition is excellent. Original everything except the tires, I replaced those with new Delta snap ons a couple of years ago. They might have 30 minutes of use on them. Original single phase Rockwell motor with condom. Several blades, most new.
Located in Greenville, TX. $1000.





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Delta Rockwell 20" bandsaw

Another thread for info on a #5 hand plane

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I was browsing an antique store on my lunch today and I ran across this plane. I have a couple this size so I don't want to grab it unless it is something special. I think I have it dated as a 16 but I am not sure. Attachment 323662...

Another thread for info on a #5 hand plane

Replacement tube universal laser

I have 60 watt universal laser that we seldom use. Looks like the tube has lost it gas and needs replacing. I inquired about a year ago and it was $1200 if I recall correctly, now it's $2150. Any alternatives or are you stuck with the tube from universal

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Replacement tube universal laser

General Finishes Arm-R-Seal

Quote Originally Posted by Michael Cole View Post

I am building a medicine cabinet out of cherry wood and am going to finish it with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil based finish. It says to use a folded up rag or foam brush to apply and use 3 coats. Should I sand between coats and if so, with what grit? Any other suggestions?

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General Finishes Arm-R-Seal

Machine Values - Please Weigh In

We are looking to clear out some seldom used tools from our High School shop to a) free up some valuable space & b) raise whatever funds we can to replace/upgrade some things. All tools listed are in working order, but, they do show that they have been in use in a High School setting from 10-50 years. I could use some input on values (whats low end, realistic, best case). Some things I have a pretty good feel for value and others (Sandstar in particular) I really don't have any idea what to ask for. Thanks in advance.

Kuster Sandstar 757 - 36" capacity, 10HP 3Ph motor. The tracking eye will probably need attention and it could use a hold down roller. Also have the extension tables for it (currently not attached).

Powermatic (81?- no info plate that I can find) Bandsaw - 20", 2HP 3Ph motor. Has a fence that looks to be original to machine. Could probably use bearings other than that good working order.

Powermatic P221 Planer Cutter Head w/ knives and Knife Grinder attachment - dusty but perfect working order

Delta 14" Bandsaw 28-203 - Could use bearings and new upper wheel guard latch

Powermatic disc/belt sander combo - don't have a model number, still in good working order but looks a little rough.

Performax Supermax 25x2 Drum Sander - Good working order, table feed belt could use replacing

Delta Scroll Saw 40-601 - Good working order, nice stand


Full Album Can Be Seen Here -

http://ift.tt/1LjYdxc

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Machine Values - Please Weigh In

Corel help - I thought it would be simple

Mornin all,

I need to cut some arches from 2mm clear cast acrylic so I drew one up in Corel and cut away.

However, when I got it out of the laser the curved arch bit at the top is not as smooth as it should be - it feels uneven when you run your finger along it. Also, where the straight sides meet the blue arched bit (shown in the black circles) there is a small lip that sticks out a tiny bit but can be felt with the finger.

Arch_1.JPG

Any ideas on what I have done wrong? Does anyone have a smooth arch shape like this one they could share?

Everything else I have been cutting is smooth with no problems - its just this pesky arch.

I haver attached the file in the hope that someone can help.

Cheers all

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Corel help - I thought it would be simple

Crack in bout of #5

Let me know if I am over-stepping my welcome. This is my third post in as many days. I am getting back into WW and I have a bunch of questions, and you folks have been a great resource . Much appreciated!

I have a flea market special #5 Bailey Smoother. It actually came with a very nice Hock blade, and I think that blinded me to a crack on the bout. It is not immediately noticeable, but it does run down from the top of the bout, from about 11:00 to almost the center. All in all it is about an inch and a quarter long. Otherwise the plane is very workable. I have tried bending the plane to see if it spreads out; I can't move it.

is this a death knell? I only spent $25 on it and got a couple of other plane blades in the mix, so I am not particularly upset about this, except it means I don't have a workable #5. Is the crack a functional problem? Is there a compound I can use to fill the crack? What other steps should I take to fix it, or should I salvage it for parts and hope for another flea market find? If anyone out there has a #5 they are looking to unload, I will make a nice offer!

Thanks folks! I very much appreciate the help!

BTW - what qualifies one as a "Galoot"? Is there a membership card? A club song? A local chapter?

Joe

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Crack in bout of #5

dimanche 18 octobre 2015

Special weekend project---Sycamore

My close friend lost his battle with brain cancer this week; all too soon. Had initially planned to have a weekend of fishing, but remembered that I'd shaped a piece that would be ideal as an urn since I knew he'd want to be cremated & the family was surprised/pleased with the offer---can go fishing another weekend. (That's where my weekend went & NOT complaining)

Think if I'm going to make more urns that I'll investigate the captured hollowing tools. I'm physically tired from making this one---the leverages on the tools are significant when reaching deep into a blank to hollow it. Did that mostly with carbides &am really glad I have the longer tools. Finished it today, didn't get it to the service, but then again no one was expecting it.

This is Sycamore-about 15 by ~ 7.5 inches. The hollowed area is 10 x 6.5-- He was a big guy. Finish is lacquer. Inside is finished with epoxy--mostly cause I don't trust endgrain vessels. The shape is reminiscent of a bullet since he was an avid outdoor person and gun collector (Family really liked that idea). Had considered dyeing the wood to look like a bullet but thought better of that since I have no experience with doing that & no one around here carries that material.(Besides I really prefer the look of the wood)
Experimenting with using PVC fittings for the lid and vessel as I'm not inclined to chase threads.

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Special weekend project---Sycamore

brass mallet

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I've been wanting to make a mallet for awhile. A friend gave me a piece of brass and I thought I'd have a go at making a mallet with it. Here's the finished results. Attachment 323617 (http://ift.tt/1ki8Ffz)

brass mallet

Plywood drawer and door fronts

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I made some shop (garage) drawers with just plywood. No edgeband or anything. Finished with Sealcoat and WB poly. I like the look. What's the downside (if any) of making a bathroom vanity (60") with plywood drawers and doors ? Thanks

Plywood drawer and door fronts

table legs from small logs?

A friend brought up some logs from a pheasant wood tree. Out of seven pieces, three are big enough to get some good planks from, but four are in the 5-6-7" range. His brother makes tables and asked that we mill out some 3" pieces for that purpose. Can anyone tell me if the small logs might suffice for that? This would mean the pith would be in the center of the 3" sticks. My logic tells me this would be fine, just as beams and posts often contains the pith of larger logs. Of course, there is the factor that these small pieces are branch wood. Normally I would not bother with them, but this wood is so rare that it seems we should get as much from them as we can.

If they are not suitable for legs or other purposes requiring length, we could think of their future destiny being material for boxes, lasered pieces, etc.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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table legs from small logs?