Hamaguri edge and Flat bevel

Brian, I am curious about the need for a hamaguri bevel (and just so you know, this is the first time I have heard the name).

As you know, I work almost exclusively with hardwoods. Most of them are no doubt much harder than the rock maple you are using (with which I am familiar).

My slicks are by Kiyohisa (as you may recall), and these are only pushed. They have a 25 degree flat bevel, since I wish them to be traditional.

I only freehand chisels (mostly other blades as well), so when it comes to my Koyamaichi dovetail chisels I go down a non-traditional route. I hollow grind them, and do so almost to the edge of the bevel, using a Tormek (to keep any heat down). This method ensures really fast re-sharpening (as I hone on the hollow). These chisels get wacked into some seriously hard, abrasive and tough wood yet have never chipped or failed in any way that would make me question the method of preparation.

Now a hollow grind is the very opposite to a hamaguri bevel. Why do you think that this (extra) work is really needed?

Guess which is which.

Regards from Perth

Derek

This entry passed through the Full-Text RSS service - if this is your content and you're reading it on someone else's site, please read the FAQ at http://ift.tt/jcXqJW.

Hamaguri edge and Flat bevel